Backfiring, Starters and locking lugs...

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Chris and Ranae,

     I hate to suggest this, but are the plug wires all in the
correct configuration?  Also, check the vacuum.  My old GFs 
Toyota used to do this.  It was a 1600 and had a Gnarly vacuum 
leak at the carb base.  It'd run a wicked lean mixture and blow 
all kinds of fire and brimstone too!  You might want to check for 
carbon coking in all the parts too, if the truck sat for more 
than a year or so.  Starting a sitting truck often leaves carbon 
deposits everywhere.  A sticky valve may also be the culprit but 
if the compression is OK then that's not it UNLESS:  If a bent 
valve or guide was installed, then as it heats it will deform 
unevenly and bind more when warm, thus it may stick after some 
run time, rather than startup.

     Hope it clears up,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not        
               forgotten.

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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 12:27:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Chris & Ranae Procyk <procyk19@domain.elided>
Subject: Backfiring through carb

My 392 is backfiring through the carb,
big-time.

<snip>

'67 1000B step-side p/up  BG241 + 4spd
'70 1200D 4x4 Travelette 392 4spd (going nowhere at the moment)
'71 1010 Travelall  392 auto
'73 1210 Wagonmaster, 392 auto (wants it's carb back)

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Dan,

     At my Uncles' shop we used to just find the worst looking 
15/16" socket and smack it down over the security lug, come right 
off.  You may need a different size, but it works.  Also you can 
use a die grinder and make a slot in the top like a big screw.  
Then use the impact wrench and a suspension adjuster (IE big 
screwdriver tab made for a rachet) and it'll come right off.  
Tack welding a bar to the nut is also a good clean/easy way.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not 
forgotten.

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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 14:38:50 -0500
From: cookiedan@domain.elided (Daniel Nees)
Subject: security lug nuts

I have a major problem. I lost the key for my security locking lug nut.
I have to get to my brakes to put new pads on the back and to fix a leak
in the front but I can't get my wheels off with out the key. Does any
one know of a way to get the lugs off without the key? I can't get a
pair of vice grips on the lug because of the offset of the rim. Is there
a place to get a key made or maybe a skeleton key that would remoive any
style lock lug? I really need to do something.

        Dan Nees
cookiedan@domain.elided
Hi my name is Dan, and I'm an IHCaholic. I have a '79 Scout rust heap
running, a '78 parts Scout on blocks, and a '71 Scout dentmobile
running.

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Steve,

Alot of the problem is the quarter sized conductor/switch inside the solenoid 
housing.  It makes poor contact and causes the problem you describe.  Sometimes 
a remote switch (like I like to install) to run the starter can apply just a bit
more current to the solenoid and close the contacts just a little bit harder and
thus make a better contact.  The firewall connector is the biggest culprit.  If 
you lose contact across the whole system, ign switch, firewall, batt. terminals 
dirty, starter sooenoid fouled, you can really have a bad time.  Try and trace 
the system and fix things one at a time.  Usually the solenoid can be cleaned 
and bingo.  Also, I'm not sure about others, but I was able to remove the 
solenoid on my '75 Travelall 392 without removing the starter, just the 
solenoid.  Cleaned it out and put my remote switch in, and I've never needed the
remote,j ust that now I have it if I do.

Good luck,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 14:54:28 -0600 (CST)
From: Steve Stegmann <stegmann@domain.elided>
Subject: Delco Style Starter problems

Scouters,

I keep hearing about converting the Delco style starter to cure the hot 
start problem.  Mine has it now.  aaaarrrrrrggggghhhhhhhh!!!!!!

<snip>

I've checked the FAQ re the starter conversion.  Steve Young says the 
kit solves the problem.  But he doesn't say how it accomplishes the cure.

I have this birth defect.  I have to know how and why it works.  
Otherwise I won't ever trust it.

Tired of rolling it down a hill.

Steven A. Stegmann
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