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Insulation in Scout II travel top...



Tom,

     Only after I rolled my rig, in early '95, did I have to take 
the top off.  It had never been off, never leaked, but I HAD to 
get it off, to work on the truck.  So I started taking out the 
fiberglass liners (I know they're 'glass by the breaks) and they 
had form fitted Styrofoam behind them!  So I hope that answers 
your question.  You ought to be able to be some sheathed 
styroboard wall insulation (popular when people enclose their 
garage, blue plastic over Styrofoam) for a few dollars per 4x8' 
sheet.  Good luck cutting the patterns, try cardboard first I 
guess.  My Scout *USED* to be a pleasure to sleep in when the 
weather was cold.  Now it's all kindsa screwed up.  Doors still 
don't fit quite right (tried 3 drivers' already, top rattles, 
rusty windows etc.  So far I have used the following to try to 
make the body correct: 2 additional travel tops, One is for sale 
if anyone has an interest.  Cheap!  You haul from Tucson AZ.  Two 
passenger doors, 3 drivers'.  2 hoods, 4 liftgates, one wheel, 
and countless little ditties.  

Also,  Someone told me that a 4x8' sheet of 1/4" masonite fits 
perfect in the roof of a travel top.  Then you cover it with 3m 
spary adhesive and felt, and your in business.  Any truth?

     Hope it helps,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:12:54 -0500
From: tsm1@domain.elided (Tom Mandera)
Subject: Re: battery's and stuff

<snip>

Speaking of WARM.. anyone ever try adding some insulation behind 
the plastic
(or are they 'glass) inserts?  I have insulation between the 
headliner and
hard top, but the sides are just bare steel, with air between it 
and the
inserts.. I've wondered if adding some cut-to-fit insulation 
material would
make any difference (after I replace those shot and cut door 
seals that leak
whistling air at me all winter long...)

- -Tom

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