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Insulation in Scout II travel top...
Tom,
Only after I rolled my rig, in early '95, did I have to take
the top off. It had never been off, never leaked, but I HAD to
get it off, to work on the truck. So I started taking out the
fiberglass liners (I know they're 'glass by the breaks) and they
had form fitted Styrofoam behind them! So I hope that answers
your question. You ought to be able to be some sheathed
styroboard wall insulation (popular when people enclose their
garage, blue plastic over Styrofoam) for a few dollars per 4x8'
sheet. Good luck cutting the patterns, try cardboard first I
guess. My Scout *USED* to be a pleasure to sleep in when the
weather was cold. Now it's all kindsa screwed up. Doors still
don't fit quite right (tried 3 drivers' already, top rattles,
rusty windows etc. So far I have used the following to try to
make the body correct: 2 additional travel tops, One is for sale
if anyone has an interest. Cheap! You haul from Tucson AZ. Two
passenger doors, 3 drivers'. 2 hoods, 4 liftgates, one wheel,
and countless little ditties.
Also, Someone told me that a 4x8' sheet of 1/4" masonite fits
perfect in the roof of a travel top. Then you cover it with 3m
spary adhesive and felt, and your in business. Any truth?
Hope it helps,
-Joel Brodsky
'76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
'75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
'72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:12:54 -0500
From: tsm1@domain.elided (Tom Mandera)
Subject: Re: battery's and stuff
<snip>
Speaking of WARM.. anyone ever try adding some insulation behind
the plastic
(or are they 'glass) inserts? I have insulation between the
headliner and
hard top, but the sides are just bare steel, with air between it
and the
inserts.. I've wondered if adding some cut-to-fit insulation
material would
make any difference (after I replace those shot and cut door
seals that leak
whistling air at me all winter long...)
- -Tom
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