Air compressors, more A/C, and Brake Booster

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

     Tom,

     The Hummer has an offset hub, meaning that the drive-shaft comes into a 
geared hub and the wheel bearing is some distance below it.  The CTIS air hose 
comes in the back of the geared hub, and directly throught the ENTIRE spindle 
assembly.  The rotating couplings spin all day all night, etc., as long as the 
wheel spins.  To replace it on a scout, you would either have to install an ARB 
locker air assembly, and drill a hole through the entire axle shaft, then make a
coupling for the knuckle U-joint, then drill a hole through the center of the 
stub shaft, out through the locking hub, then place the hose out to your vavle 
stem.  Basically your 'steam engine crank style air hose' sounds like the best 
bet.  The Hummer CTIS/driveline is very complicated, as CTIS is one option that 
cannot be added to a non-CTIS truck.

     Keep on thinking though, I guess that's how airplanes got invented.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 14:38:04 -0500
From: tsm1@domain.elided (Tom Mandera)
Subject: Oh, wait.. another senseless post

Sorry, but another bizarre thought came across me again...

One day I was pondering the Hummer's CTS (Central Tire inflation System)..
and how one could replicate it on a Scout.. it's hard to do, since the
Hummer uses those funky wheels (full IFS) to do the CTS part but..
<SNIP>

*smiles*

- -Tom Mandera, Helena MT (Who else?)
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
'72 and '77 Scout IIs

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Kevin, Howard, et al.

     One technique for evacuating (mostly) the compressor is to run the system 
at regular operating temperature until the freon circuit stabilizes, (ie. you 
get a continuous reading through the sight glass).  At that time, you shut off 
the INPUT side of the compressor, which leaves the compressor to try and pump 
out the remaining freon and pressureize the return side.  Then after some time, 
close off the OUTPUT side of the compressor, and you've removed the most freon 
from the comressor that you can, keepinf the freon and refrigerant oil in the 
lines, both closed off at the manifolds (the vavles the screw into the 
compressor head).  One problem:
Like I said it is a federal crime to release freon.  So much so, that the 
process of screwing a guage on the pressure fitting, then unscrewing the guage 
releases freon and that too is prohibited.  

The sniffers that we use at my Uncle's shop sense 1/4 of one ounce per year of 
freon leaking.   That's not too much, but you could probably find a shop that 
would be happy to do it for free if you gave them the freon.  I'd guess that 
under $20 would sound fair.  Also, if you can get ahold of a tank (freon R-12) 
you could hold your own unseparated (freon+oil) mix to replace later, when you 
go back to the shop.

     I hope this helps some,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 16:28:44 EST
From: n9ads@domain.elided (Howard R Pletcher)
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning Question

On Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:08:17 EST special.k1@domain.elided (Kevin J De Vries)
writes:
>
>     I was wondering if anybody cold help me with a little problem.  I
am
>currently stripping my '78 Scout that was rear ended last summer and 
<snip>
safely removing the freon

>from the system.  Thanks in advance.
>
The valves on top of the compressor seat both when they are turned all
<snip>

Howard Pletcher
Howteron Products Scout Parts
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John,

     I thought about this every time I heard that stupid hiss from the failing 
surround gasket on the booster case.  I ended up just gooping silicon around the
case half joint,and my vacuum returned, and no more hiss, and great brakes now.
It is my impression that the case of the booster is pressed together then turned
about 2 inches or so to lock.  The amount of turn to lock may vary, but, it is 
some appreciable length.  It only takes around 'A Zillion lbs' to press the case
halves together.  I had one fail because a bad master cyl. let fluid seep into 
the boster, but otherwise there should be no failure in the system other than 
vacuum around the edges.  I've got about 10 cores in the yard at the shop, so if
you guinea pig one, let me know if it works, I could make a fortune rebuilding 
those.  My new one was around $169 my cost, $210 retail.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.


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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 22:11:21 GMT
From: jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)
Subject: Vacuum Brake Booster Repair

Hey gang,

Has anyone ever got up enough guts to try and disassemble one of the IH
dual diaphragm vacuum brake boosters?  Repair parts (if needed) *must* be
available somewhere is one digs hard enough.  I just can't believe how much
rebuilt units cost.  I think the bulk of the charge is for the black magic
and witchcraft associated with the repair... sort of like automatic
transmissions!

I know from looking at the IH shop manual there is a *big* return spring
inside the booster casing.  That's the only thing that stops me from trying
to open one.  If I don't get killed from a supersonic flying spring, I'm
worried about never being able to get it back together.

If no ones ever tried this, I might just play Lewis and Clark with one and
try to discover some uncharted territory!

Any thought?

John
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
jlandry@domain.elided             |
Conservative Libertarian        |  Scout(R) the America others pass by
Life Member of the NRA          | in the Scout Traveler escape-machine.
WA Arms Collectors              |
Commercial Helicopter - Inst.   |    1976 Scout II Traveler "Patriot"
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/ |

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