D44 Rear axle Qs

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Denni,

    The drums are *ONLY* held on by the rear wheels.  With the truck 
sufficiently chocked and the rear end raised, and the E brake off, and the trans
in park, remove the rear wheels.  The drums should pull straight off *UNLESS* 
there is a lip on the inside of the drum.  If this is the case, you need to 
punch through the access plug on the face of the drum,  It's an oval port 
knockout that is about 1/4" by 1.5", and can be punched through with a small 
punch and hammer.  Be careful not to damage any internals.  With the slug inside
there, it's ok, just remember to take it out when the drum comes off.  Now you 
need to reach a screwdriver or 'brake adjustment fork' inside the port and try 
to compress the shoes a bit.  The lip is not usually more than about 1/8", so 
you may need to compress the shoes quite a bit.  After you're sure the shoes are
clear of the lip, the drums should pull off the wheel bolt studs and voila 
you're in.  The caveat to all this is that the drums should not be RIGID on the 
bolt studs, they should jiggle just a bit with the wheel off.  If they are 
frozen on the axle flange, then use WD or PB, or any other penetrant to try to 
free them.

        The new drums can be found anwhere from $35 to $100.  $75 doesn't sound 
all that high to me.

        The rear disc conversion is very popular, especially with the J@@p crowd
that steal ScoutII D44 rear axles.  I think after all is said and done, it's 
about $550 for the convo.  Many manufacturers make the kit, and it requires some
moderate welding, and fitting, as well as calipers and pads.

        Also, I have heard of tire as big as 44" run on D44s so the 33s are just
fine.  I know a guy here at work with 35s on his, and he has no problems other 
than body rub at high flex.

        One more thing about the 'shredded' diff.  With the rears off the 
ground, turn one drum and see if the other turns at all.  A blown LS will 
usually function just fine as an open diff, so if it's not 
crunching/clinking/clunking/chattering, etc., etc. I'd leave it until you get 
the brakes figured out.

        Hope this helps,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.
        
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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 01:36:33 -0500
From: dfeagins@domain.elided (Denni Feagins)
Subject: Rear brakes

Dear folks,

        My rear brakes on my Scout II are shot.  Rust has eaten off parts of
the drums and I would like suggestions on what to do to replace or upgrade
them.  I've got a few questions before I tear into this darned axle (this is
the one with the shredded Trac-Loc).

1.      How do you remove the rear drums?  Are the pressed onto the end of
the axle?  I've tried coaxing (gently, really!) the drums off and
parts of the drums just snapped off!  

2.      Has anyone got a replacement source for the rear brake drums?  The
only         price I've gotten so far is $75.00 per drum.  Seemed a might
high to me!

3.      Has anyone installed rear disc brakes? Are there any aftermarket
suppliers for IH Dana 44 rear axles?

4.      What's the biggest tire being successfully run on rear Dana 44
axles?  I         want to install 33" tires on my Scout and I'm concerned
the Dana 44         might not be strong enough.  

I really appreciate your help.  BTW, does anyone have an old rear diff
they've laid aside in favor of a Detroit or limited-slip diff? I'd even take
a trac-loc to get my Scout moving again!

Thanks,
Denni Feagins
'73 Scout II/V-304/TF727/Dana 20

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