Fast Idle Cam ?

[rhughes@domain.elided]

   >>Hello again, Still trying to figure out which carb I have and how to
   get
   my choke to work right. I should be getting a Holley book soon.
   Hopefully then I can identify it. It looks very similar to the 2300 in
   the manual with enough of a difference to question whether it is or not.

George, I'll look up your carb in my Holley book, if you like.  I've got
the Haynes Holley Carb Techbook, and I think it's great.  I'd recommend
getting it (12 bucks) regardless.  BTW, my '75 Scout II has the 2210c
(2bbl) -- I think it was fairly standard on Scouts of that era.

   >>As for the choke, the fast idle was never set correctly and the
   choke plate was sticking. I took this opportunity to change from the
   automatic choke to a hand choke.(I like the extra control) As for the
   fast idle, I've got some problems. Whenever I adjusted the fast idle
   screw close enough to the fast idle cam the cam was unable to move the
   screw to make the idle go up. The tension on the fast idle screw is way
   too much. When I move it by hand I noticed that it forces the throttle
   lever the accelerator lever and everything else on the other side of the
   carb to move with it. This seems like a lot of excess weight for a
   little plastic cam to move. I've studied it for awhile now and
   everything looks like it is logically hooked up, loosened up, and set
   up. But, what do I know? Any suggestions?

It sounds like your fast idle cam/throttle linkage is working correctly.
The way the cam is designed, with steps, makes it so that it won't "push"
the throttle open wider on its own.  When you push in the throttle, the
fast idle screw moves back, and the fast idle cam will set itself according
to the choke closure.  Then the fast idle screw will move forward, resting
on one of the steps of the fast idle cam.  This is why you should tap your
accelerator after the engine (choke) warms up, to let the fast idle cam
move down and let the fast idle screw contact a lower step.  Also, I think
this is why you should press the accelerator to the floor once before
starting a cold engine -- the choke can't close because the fast idle cam
is hanging up on the fast idle screw -- by pressing the gas, you let the
choke close and set the fast idle screw on the first step of the cam.

To set the fast idle speed, close the choke to spec, and set the fast idle
screw on the fast idle cam.  You may need to bend the linkage rod between
the cam and the choke plate.  With the choke close and the fast idle screw
on the first ("biggest") step of the cam, turn the fast idle screw til you
get the rpm's listed in spec (1600?).

Rob