re: 2 liter block in a 318i

[jkerouac@xxxxxxx]

re: 2 liter block in a 318i

Here's the detailed nitty gritty:
Right side motor mount bracket from Metric Mechanic.
Throttle body:
    318i throttle body bored and fitted with 325e throttle plate.
    a 325i throttle body is too large for the 2 liter.  If its a 2.3
liter block, then the 325i throttle is ok.
Intake:
    Use a Purolater air filter for a Chevy/Geo/Isuzu Sprint pressed
right onto the front of the AFM, you have to saw the metal bulge off the
front of the factory air filter box.
    Bend the bump stop in the AFM back so the flap fully opens with just
slight contact on the bump stop so the flap doesn't slap hard
Spark Plugs and wires:
    NGK BP6ET, as from a Mazda RX7.  NGK wires from Honda 1500 or 1600.
Header:
    Stahl headers will make a 1_3/8 primary to 2_1/4 outlet header with
Oxygen sensor fitting.
    Use an oxygen sensor from a VW Rabbit.
Exhaust: 2_1/4 pipe to a Thrush California Turbo, Flowmaster, or
Supertrap.  Use a Chevy Citation muffler bracket with a few bends to
mount the muffler.  Use angle iron and the factory hanging ring at the
subframe mounting position.
Cylinder head:
    Skunkworks time:
My motor had the factory 9.5 pistons that the old Haynes book listed as
stock for the 77 320i.  As SCCA has shown in other cases such as the 300
cam in the 2002ti, what is documented matters more than what is true but
unprovable.
    I installed them with the rods reversed.  This fit the domes
perfectly under the stock 318i head.  Thus you can keep your 318i
distributor.  The reverse rod motor had some definite torque
advantages.  Despite other opinions, the motor was durable and had low
oil consumption.
    If you use flat top pistons, the 318i head fits fine wth no other
adaptations needed.
If you use a 2 liter head then you need to either:
    Install the 1.8 liter camshaft so you can keep your distributor, or
    adapt your own ignition set to trigger from the TDC sensor pulse.
L-Jetronic notes:
    _Definitely_ use the 1984 model year injection.  That directly
triggers the injectors.  The 1985 model uses a relaty trigger to the
injectors and has slower throttle response and overall performance.
Injectors:
    The stock 318i injectors are fine, but the
Fuel Pressure:
    needs to be raised to 58 to 60 psi.
So first, replace the aging tired fuel line from fuel pump to the intake
rail, take no chances that raising the pressure will crack through a
weak section of hose.
    Then take down the part number of your fuel pressure regulator.  Get
the Bosch part number of the same number except for the last three
digits.  Replace the last three digits with either 001 (one outlet), 003
(two outlet), or if you're a secret agent, the Mercedes V8 part number
007.  Install the new pressure regulator downstream of the fuel rail and
set to 60psi at idle.  To make a fuel pressure guage, I tooke a standard
engine compression gauge and clamped its hose onto the fuel outlet on
the fuel rail that otherwise would feel the cold start injector.
Ignition timing:
    Using a Mallory Voltmaster coil and the NGK plugs listed, with NGK
wires listed for a Honda 1500 or 1600 motor, I ran 38 to 42 degrees
advance on the stock 198_4_ distributor.  The 85 distributor is lamer.
Emissions:
    With all the power made from efficiency improvements, this of bolts
ran _clean_, way under the limits even without a cat.
How much power?:
    My configuration had estimated 150 hp, was awesome off the line,
pulled to the 6200rpm rev limiter in four gears, topped out in fifth
(with rear spoiler) at 138 on its best day, 135 consistently.
    Also it got 30 mpg highway at 75mph, 24+ around town.  that was with
a 4.10 rear from a 318i automatic.
Gee I miss that car. ((-:
Good luck on your project,
'jk

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