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Re: Buncha Buncha Help Requested
- Subject: Re: Buncha Buncha Help Requested
- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 04:32:42
>Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 14:13:02 -0500
>From: "Richard R. Coker" <richardcoker@domain.elided>
>Subject: Buncha Buncha Help Requested
>
>Ok, a number of questions I was hoping you guys and gals can help me with,
>PLLLLLEEASSEEE. I have a 1996 328iS with appox. 62,000. miles on it. What
>I am wondering is how much longer my shocks should last OR should I replace
>them now. Any other maintenance replacements I should consider other than
>what is listed for schedule I and II??
The life of your shocks varies. There are people who get over 100k miles
out of their shocks, while others replace them after 30k miles. What makes
you think that your shocks/struts are worn?
Rather than guess whether your shocks are bad, check them out. Don't do the
"bounce the fender" test, because by the time your shocks fail to dampen out
large bounces like this, the shocks are so bad that you would have noticed
it long ago (unless you drive a Buick, which floats like a rubber raft in
the ocean).
Some things to test/check:
1) Tire wear - how are your tires wearing? One telltale sign that your
shocks are worn is s scalloped wear pattern across the face of the tire. If
you don't see this, your shocks may be okay.
2) Test drive - drive the car over some bumpy or rutted pavement and have
someone follow you or drive alongside, to observe the reaction of your
tires/wheels to the bumps. Uncontrolled motion by the tire/wheel combo is a
good indication that the shock/strut is no longer doing it's job.
3) Shop test - find a shop that can test your shocks/struts in a garage.
This is what I'm trying to find right now...
>Also, does anybody have a good place to get crossed drilled rotors, the
>best price I have gotten so far is $76. a piece and the last ones I got
>lasted only 12,000. miles. Is there any other items I should keep an eye
>on for possible future problems??? (I have already replaced the waterpump
>as preventive care) Also, I can get two pairs of regular rotors for the
>cost of one pair of cross drilled, are they really worth the added cost?
I think that you've already answered your question here. Other than the
potential "cool look", you won't have anything to gain with cross-drilled
rotors unless you're doing lots of serious track/racing work. Save your
money.
>Two other questions, how hard is it to change the brake circuit and my
>parking park has become weak in gripping ability what would be the normal
>fix for this??
Not sure what you mean by "change the brake circuit". Do you mean
bleed/flush the brake fluid? With the right equipment, it's very easy.
Check out:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Also, BavAuto, BMP, AJ USA private label this pressure bleeder.
As far as your parking brake goes, there are two reasons why it may not be
gripping:
1) brake shoes are worn
2) cables needs to be adjusted
The parking brake is a mechanical drum brake, located inside the center
portion of your rear rotors. There is a small set of brake shoes inside.
It's very easy to pull the rear rotors and remove them.
Adjusting the cables is done at the parking brake handle inside the car.
There is an adjusting nut for each cable. There is a procedure to adjust
them; it's listed in the Bentley manual.
- -rb
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