Finally finished my audio....I think?!

["Paul Elliott" <pelliott@xxxxxxx>]

Just an update on my system. Today, Sound Concept in Mt Kisco NY installed
my Polk DX3000 tweeters to go with my Polk dX5510 mid woofers, my
Stealthboxes, and my Kenwood X501F 4X75 @ 14.4v amp to go with my Kenwood
Excelon head unit..

Its truely awesome. Before, I did all I could to make my bass more
prominent. Now, I find I have my hands full just trying to keep it down to
reasonable levels. At first, it was sooo boomy, it had no 'distinctiveness'
between notes...I found that using my hi pass filter to filter out some of
the lows below 40 hz, and by messing with the Non Fading preout level, the
gain, the Qs, etc, I can alter the boominess, so that I can either here
smooth loud bass, boomy bass, or tight no-boom bass.  What are Qs and Center
Frequencies anyway?  If I make the BAss center frequency Higher, how does
that effect sound?  What about the Treble center frequency?

What kind of pissed me off is that I told the store and the installer I
wanted him to bridge the two rear channels. Bridged, this amp is rated at
300 watts. With 2 subs, he should, I think, have wired the + terminal from
the left rear channel with the - terminal from the rt rear channel,
connected the left steatlhbox, and wired the rt one up in parallel....at
least, that's how I read the manual...Instead, even though he said he was
going to bridge them, because he's used all 4 rear speaker connections to
the, I think he just gave them a traditional stereo connection, and set them
to mono via a switch. So that instead of getting 300 watts, theyre probably
getting 75 each. As I said, the bass from the subs is extremely prominent.
Given that fact, do you think I might as well leave it as is, rather then
going through another day at the audio store? I would think that giving more
power to the subs by bridging would just make my job tougher to tune it back
out for good sound balance! Leave it as is? Of course, I suppose its
possible that he DID bridge the amp another way, if there is such a
thing....But with all 4 rear speaker terminals used, I dont think that
spells bridging, do you?

Also, I dont think he ran the ext. amp control wire from the head unit which
allows me to control the amp's BMS Bass Boost circuit from the head unit.
But, since I can set it at the amp, again, I dont think its worth dealing
with those guys again. Sheez, where are the Good audio stores/installers ?

Anyway, I'm real happy with the system now, and I've finally got sounds Im
real happy with.  Thanks for the tips.

regards,

_____________________________
Paul Elliott
'99 Alpine White M3  <25000 mi  Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage
II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals;
X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio



_____________________________
Paul Elliott
'99 Alpine White M3  <25000 mi  Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage
II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals;
X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio

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