Re: Inspection II

["Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Richard,

Comments inline...

>Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 11:33:30 -0500
>From: "Richard R. Coker" <RichardCoker@domain.elided>
>Subject: Inspection II
>
>I have just almost completed my first inspection II and thought some of the 
>other members might be interested in some roadblocks I hit.  (For others of 
>you this is old hat but I wish I had known this prior)   This was performed 
>on my 1997 BMW 328iS.
>
>1) First to change the oil you will need I believe it was a 27mm socket to 
>remove the oil filter from the case.   (I bought a 25-30mm set and it could 
>have taken the 28mm---I couldn't believe it Napa Pro or Parts City didn't 
>have them but Walmart did!)

On my E34 525iT and E36 M3, the oil filter is in a canister, and the lid 
requires a small socket (13 or 15 mm).  I thought that the 2.8l engine was 
the same?  No?

>2) The O-Ring on the filter goes in the groove on the filter insert---be 
>sure and note where the old one was and replace exactly there.

On my cars, the o-ring goes into the groove in the filter canister lid.  
Once again, I find it interesting that BMW would change the design of the 
oil filter canister.

>3) Mobile One does not carry a 40 weight synthetic/at least I couldn't find 
>any.

Actually, they do (10W40).  It's a motorcycle oil.

http://www.mobil1.com/mobil1_racing/about/products/cycle/oil_sport.html

I'm not sure whether there are differences which would make it unsuitable 
for automobile use.

BMW sells a full synthetic oil.  It's a 5W30, and it's recommended for all 
current and past BMW models.  I use it in my 525iT.  It's made by Castrol, 
and it costs about $1/qt less than Mobil 1 (with BMWCCA discount, it's even 
le$$).

>4) A nice 14mm allen wrench is required to remove change the differential 
>fluid as is a differential fluid additive.  (I have not yet completed this 
>and I am really unsure if the allen wrench has adequate room to take off 
>and on the fill plug but it does reach the
>drain plug.)  The Bentley says to use a 14mm allen socket but the 1/2 inch 
>one I purchased would not fit in the small space to reach the plug---there 
>went $20.  I doubt any socket would work.

I purchased a Facom 14mm hex driver socket from Steve D'Gerolamo at the 
Ultimate Garage:

http://www.ultimategarage.com/factorx.html

Look for part number D 107-14

>5) If I had it to do over again I would plan on replacing the stock drain 
>plug bolt on the oil pan.

Why?  What's wrong with your drain plug?  The only thing that nrmally gets 
replaced is the crsuh washer, and a new one comes with the oil filter.

>6) The spark plugs were a dream to do and the micro filter a true pain.

Yes, I've changed the microfilter, and it wasn't fun.  However, I didn't 
remove the glovebox to replace it, so it didn't take that long.

>7) You will need some sort of device to shoot the tranny fluid and 
>differential fluid into the units as there is not way to "pour" it in.

I use a gear oil 'lube pump' that I purchased from Pep Boys.  It's like the 
pump that you find in a bottle of liquid hand soap, only much larger.  It's 
designed to screw onto the top of a gear oil bottle, but it won't fit onto a 
Redline bottle.  It has a clear hose that is inserted into the fill opening 
of the transmission or differential.

Since trans lube and diff lube are two different fluids, I have two of these 
pumps.

- -rb

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