Re: Considering an E30 Daily Driver - Tips? Comments?

[mark <shrike.cars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Scott,


>I am considering purchasing a E30 to use as a daily driver and

Good choice. But why not an E36?

>possibably occasional autox (my 87 Corvette is my primary autox car).  I
>would only be interested in a Manual Trans and probably more interested
>in a 4-door than a 2-door but this is somewhat flexible.

The e30 coupe (which I have) is good, there is room in the back if the driver
is under 6' tall (which I am not). Even on the 4 door models, rear seat room
is tight if the driver / front passenger are tall. (My brother has a 4 door e-30
that
is no longer around).

>What I am curious about is what models and years should I look for?  I am tending

>towards a 325i or 325is but I am wondering about the 325e or 318i.
>Reliability and fun to drive are my primary concerns.

Then go with the 325is. The suspension is already setup (I think) as different
from a normal
e-30. The 318i (which is the one I have) is good. The engine will last forever
according
to my mechanic back in the states. I have to admit, my car has 250,000 km (not
miles) on
it and is still running strong. The only problem I have is that the solenoid in
the starter is starting
to go, so sometimes when the engine is hot and I stop for a while and try and
re-start, it wont.
It requires me to lightly tap on the top of the starter with a piece of metal
pipe. Or to do a rolling
start. Be aware though, the e30 325is only comes as a coupe (at least so I have
heard). One other
thing, the 325's are more "front end happy" than the 318 (more weight up front in
a 325) at least in my
experience. Which can be compensated for in a corner because the 325 actually has
torque / acceleration.
Something which the 4 banger 318 doesn't seem to be acquainted with... Passing
power is also null
on the 318 anywhere under 3500 to 4000 rpm (even then it's not the greatest). The
325e has a carb,
not injection. Have you checked out the 325ix? 4wd... but terribly expensive for
what it is....

>Are there any particular years to avoid? or look for? any features I would
want/not
>want?

Well, avoid A/C, it adds weight and sucks power when on. Go for a later model
(late 80's). Less
chance of rust / lower miles. Now, my 318i is a German model, I am not familiar
with the US
ones that well, but the Time/Date/Temp computer is nice to have, but virtually
useless (mine has also
started speaking chinese.... I'm beginning to wonder where BMW made these
things........ <G>)
Power mirrors are nice... Leaking trunks can usually attributed to the tail light
seals..

>As I am in Michigan, what areas should I check for rust?  What
>other mechanical issues should I look for as I am probably in the market
>for a 100k mile car?

Mine's a 1985, it has rust on the underbody, rockers, wheel arches and if you
remove the
side carpet in the trunk you will see a gaping hole where the shocktower and body
come
together. Not good. This car is due to be replaced with a Citroen Saxo VTS. I
would love
another BMW, but I'm in Europe, where a USED 323ti Kompact (180hp?) costs 160,000
FF and
a NEW Citroen Saxo VTS (120hp?) costs 83,000 FF... Hard choice, but one I have to
make....

>All of my prior experience is with GM products but
>I need a RWD Manual transmission car with a useable back seat.  I am
>already in the process of ordering a Bentley E30 manual.

Go for the BMW factory shop manual as well (if you can fork over the cash, it's a
heavy purchase).

Anywho, if you really want to have a car that is upgradeable, why not go for the
E-36? They are newer,
less problem prone in the rust area, and everyone still makes upgrade kits for
them..... And the dealer
wont be out of parts that take three days to order when you really need it
<grumble grumble>...

Prost!
Mark
mark@domain.elided

72tii (in pieces in three different places)
75 '02 (sold for a pitance)
85 318i coupe (rusting, but my main form of transportation)
88 F150 (sold)
81 John Deere 316 (2 cyl, 16 hp, grass devourer)

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