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Considering an E30 Daily Driver - Tips? Comments?
- Subject: Considering an E30 Daily Driver - Tips? Comments?
- From: Christopher Pawlowicz <chrisp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:06:38 -0400
Scott sez
>I am considering purchasing a E30 to use as a daily driver and
>possibably occasional autox (my 87 Corvette is my primary autox car). I
>would only be interested in a Manual Trans and probably more interested
>in a 4-door than a 2-door but this is somewhat flexible. What I am
>curious about is what models and years should I look for? I am tending
>towards a 325i or 325is but I am wondering about the 325e or 318i.
>Reliability and fun to drive are my primary concerns. Are there any
>particular years to avoid? or look for? any features I would want/not
>want? As I am in Michigan, what areas should I check for rust? What
>other mechanical issues should I look for as I am probably in the market
>for a 100k mile car?
early 318i ('84/85) - fun, simple and reliable
late 318i/is ('90, '91) - fun, 16V engine, fast and nimble
beware dreaded 'profile gasket' failure (guaranteed) @ 50k miles
325e, 325 ('84-'87) - lots of torque, engine runs out of rpm quickly
325i/is ('87-'91) - lots of torque, lots of rpm, fast, my personal choice
six cylinder engines are interference type with a timing belt -
belt breaks, engine is wrecked. MUST be changed @ 50k mile intervals (or else!)
E30 general:
S model means leather, power everything, LSD, sport suspension, premium stereo,
on-board-computer (mpg,time,date,temp,range,fuel,avgspd,etc), 2door
non-S models *can* have all of the above as options
lots of parts can be swapped between models.. ie many M3 parts bolt right
on to non-M 3ers (LSD, springs, Al control arms, etc) but some are M specific
(5 bolt hubs instead of 4 bolt, sway bars mount differently etc)
rust:
above rear license plate
rockers/behind front wheels
fuel filler hose mounting points in right rear wheel well
rubber bushings: if you have to bring an E30 up to snuff (if all it's rubber
bushings are shot) it will cost quite a bit.. make sure to get the car
checked out before buying by a BMW garage. (sway bar bushings, control arm
bushings, subframe bushings, engine mounts, etc)
mileage is not really important.. I have 200k miles on my '89 325i (I put
100k of those on) and it still gets pretty heavy use autox, driving schools,
etc, without any problems
personally, I would go for a 325i/is, as late a model year as you can
('87 have ugly bumpers, '88 have better looking bumpers, air dam,
'89+ look the best)
The 4 cylinders are nice but I really like the grunt of the six.
chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'74 2002
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