[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Considering an E30 Daily Driver - Tips? Comments?



Scott sez
>I am considering purchasing a E30 to use as a daily driver and
>possibably occasional autox (my 87 Corvette is my primary autox car).  I
>would only be interested in a Manual Trans and probably more interested
>in a 4-door than a 2-door but this is somewhat flexible.  What I am
>curious about is what models and years should I look for?  I am tending
>towards a 325i or 325is but I am wondering about the 325e or 318i. 
>Reliability and fun to drive are my primary concerns.  Are there any
>particular years to avoid? or look for? any features I would want/not
>want?  As I am in Michigan, what areas should I check for rust?  What
>other mechanical issues should I look for as I am probably in the market
>for a 100k mile car?

early 318i ('84/85) - fun, simple and reliable
late 318i/is ('90, '91) - fun, 16V engine, fast and nimble
                beware dreaded 'profile gasket' failure (guaranteed) @ 50k miles
325e, 325 ('84-'87) - lots of torque, engine runs out of rpm quickly
325i/is ('87-'91) - lots of torque, lots of rpm, fast, my personal choice

six cylinder engines are interference type with a timing belt -
 belt breaks, engine is wrecked. MUST be changed @ 50k mile intervals (or else!)

E30 general:
 S model means leather, power everything, LSD, sport suspension, premium stereo,
   on-board-computer (mpg,time,date,temp,range,fuel,avgspd,etc), 2door

non-S models *can* have all of the above as options

lots of parts can be swapped between models.. ie many M3 parts bolt right
 on to non-M 3ers (LSD, springs, Al control arms, etc) but some are M specific
 (5 bolt hubs instead of 4 bolt, sway bars mount differently etc)

rust:
 above rear license plate
 rockers/behind front wheels
 fuel filler hose mounting points in right rear wheel well

rubber bushings: if you have to bring an E30 up to snuff (if all it's rubber
 bushings are shot) it will cost quite a bit.. make sure to get the car
 checked out before buying by a BMW garage. (sway bar bushings, control arm
 bushings, subframe bushings, engine mounts, etc)

mileage is not really important.. I have 200k miles on my '89 325i (I put
 100k of those on) and it still gets pretty heavy use autox, driving schools,
 etc, without any problems

personally, I would go for a 325i/is, as late a model year as you can
('87 have ugly bumpers, '88 have better looking bumpers, air dam,
 '89+ look the best)
The 4 cylinders are nice but I really like the grunt of the six.

chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'74 2002

------------------------------