<all> Sub Belts

[dstevenson <dstevenson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jeff asked

>can't figure a way
>to (without permanent damage) mount the lap and antisub-strap.  Anybody
have
>suggestions that are less damaging to the car?


Get a 2 point (2 ended on one end so looks like a Y) sub belt with bolt eye
ends (these are common) and bolt them thru where the front of your drivers
seat bolts into the car. Allot of people do this.

If you want to be really attentive to details that may save your life, (and
I am quoting from Simpson product info) you should be sure that all belt
mounting brackets are installed at an angle that is compatible with the
direction of pull on the webbing under full load. Of course my suggestion
above would pretty much violate this rule, but I would make sure the lap
belts and the shoulder harnesses follow the Simpson spec.

This directional pull thing is hard to accomplish on a stock Bimmer. The way
I am solving it is by using the snap hooks and eye bolts (grade 8 or higher)
for the lap belts (shoulder belts are attached to a harness bar on a roll
cage).

I am still using the stock seats and I will attach the bolt eye (for lap
belt snapin) on the drivers left side to the stock seat belt slider bar
mount and on the drivers right side I will attach the lap belt via its snap
hook to a heavy angle iron bolted thru the rear of the drivers seat (thanks
to Bob Van Epps for the angle iron fab idea). I think this is a pretty safe
setup and it also satisfies the SCCA/IT rules that all belts be attached to
car and not to drivers seat.

You can get a free catalog at www.simpsonraceproducts.com that has some good
saftey info in it.

Any ideas on how to improve on this stuff are welcome.

Be careful out there folks and have a great driving season.

Thanks

Don Stevenson/BMWCCA Boston Chapter 

1988 325IS, (to much to list), should have stayed the street car.

1987 325IS, project, should have been the track car.

1988 Volvo 240 Wagon 5 Speed (green alloy wheels)

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