Jeff Krause's key-light retrofit

[Neil Hitze <neil@xxxxxxxxx>]

Due to the number of requests for this info, I thought I'd just post it
here.
This is just a typed (I have no scanner) verbatim copy of Jeff's article
as seen in the Hoosier Tracks, May-June 1997.  
He gets all credit for the idea, and tips, as far as I am concerned. 
I can't claim even an iota of this idea as my own (dang, why didn't I
think of that....).

              (!--Beginning of plagiarized text--)

Instructions for key-light retrofit:

1st) A quick description of my key light (I suppose there are other
kinds out there): Mine came with a 1988 M3.
In order to remove the 'light' portion the key, you press the 'roundel'
in so that it will have clearance when the 
'light' portion slides out (sideways as you hold the key in front of you
vertically). There are a couple 'clips' that
you can push in and wedge a small standard screwdriver to 'pop' the
pieces apart. Inside are five pieces: a small 
incandescent bulb, a 1.5v battery, and two pieces of conductive metal
and a spring (there are also 3 plastic pieces, 
the 'roundel' button, and two pieces of enclosures). If yours matches
the above description, you can continue.

2nd) The parts you need (I got them at Radio Shack, but I suppose you
could get these at an electronics supply shop:
1) one 3volt Lithium battery   Radio Shack part # 23-167 size CR1616
2) one "Super Bright LED 2000mcd light output  Radio Shack part #
276-087 (on the bulb package, it says 1.85volts, 20mA) just ignore it. 
more later
3) one soldering iron
4) some solder
5) a wire cutter

3rd) Plug in your soldering iron. Open up your key light, and remove the
battery and light (they just pop out). 
Now open up the package containing the LED. 
LEDs have a diode and an anode (one is shorter than the other). Have
patience here, this might take some agility, and a half hour.
The shorter lead coming out of the light will connect to the metal
conductive piece that leads directly under the spring. 
The longer one will connect to the metal conductive piece that used to
touch the bulb (The LED must be connected with this polarity; 
it won't work if you install it backwards). Now cut the leads and solder
them to their respective metal pieces 
(such a short instruction but might take a little time). Try to allow
yourself just enough so that there will be no leads left over.
At this point you can put the spring and battery in (as you found it
originally) and press the Roundel to see if it works. 
The battery is slimmer than the one you pulled out, but don't worry,
it'll work (the spring take up the extra slack). You might have to
'scrape'
some of the plastic where the LED sits to make some more room (the old
bulb was a wee bit smaller). This might take a few shots to get it so
the 
plastic enclosure clicks together. Try shaving some, then putting it
together. If things 'don't fit right' shave some more off (take note not
to shave a hole
right through the plastic). Once the bulb sits nicely in the plastic
(and should be soldered up to the two metal pieces), you can assemble
everything back together.

The LED and battery cost about $4.5 at Radio Shack.

             (!--End of plagiarized text--)

My key is different than Jeff's, in that, instead of the light portion
sliding out, the key pops apart down the middle, with only fingers. 
Once inside, everything else is the same.
The parts cost me about $5 or so, including a roll of solder.
It took me about ten minutes to do the conversion. 
- -- 
Do Svedanya!
Neil Hitze
Valleyview State Home
      for the
 Incurably Artistic

"..I know nuthin'. I am merely a messenger...." --Some old guy in the
movie Stroker Ace

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