<E28><M30><all> Longevity of these Beasties

[Pearson-Franks Family <pearsonf@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Digesters:

One of the recurring themes here about these wonderful cars
is their longevity - phrased many ways:  "How many miles is a
lot of miles?" and "What can I do to get the most miles out of
my car?".  Here are a collection of thoughts on what I think
tends to work.  Most of my experience is with the M30 motor in
my E12's and E28's, but should be fairly applicable to others.
I'd love to hear others' observations, additions, contradictions!

1)  Fluid changes.  I am a 3K miles motor oil and filter changer,
    regardless of service light illumination.  Contaminants
    build up in the oil, especially in older, looser motors
    and there is no other way to get rid of them.
2)  Ditto tranny and diff., duh!  <g>
3)  Think a lot about lubrication - where the oil is, and what
    temp it is.
    - This leads me to give this motor 30 seconds or so idling
      after a cold start to get oil everywhere it should be.
    - Don't wind the beastie up until your temp guage has
      stabilized wherever it likes to be.
    - Let it calm down after you have driven it really hard.  You
      do a cool-down lap at the track, do the same thing at the
      end of your commute (or other driving experience).  I just
      take it easy with 2 grand shift points for the last 2 miles
      or so.  This heads off the afterheat problem that can otherwise
      cook oil and other vitals if you shut down fast after a
      hard run.
    - Lastly, these guys don't like a severe tilt nose up - the
      oil light will take a long time to go out in this position.
      Solution:  park level or downhill.  And/or replace oil pump!
4)  An M30-specific issue is to frequently check the 'banjo bolts'
    that secure the oil tube above the cam.  They loosen, interrupting
    oil flow with consequent harm to the cam lobes.  There is a new one
    with a locking function, distinguishable by a circle on the top.
5)  After braking hard for an extended period (doesn't have to be at
    the track - just coming down a long grade) give yourself room to
    'creep' if you have to be stopped.  This lets the heat generated
    in the pads to be distributed over the surface of the rotor.  If
    it is concentrated in one place, it may warp the rotor.

I didn't want to get into any of the many paint, interior and other
appearance-related issues; someone else might want to run with that!

Later, Larry F.

Larry Franks
Issaquah, Washington
'86 535i x 2
'83 245 GLT (Swedish iron)

------------------------------