[no subject]

Mformation, for M88/S38 powered cars (M5, M6, M635CSi, M1):
http://www.halcyon.com/jrallen/Mformation/

The Big Coupe Groupe for 6 Series cars:
http://web2.airmail.net/grills/b_c_g_FAQ/b_c_g_FAQ.html

Now, on with the details.

First, please disregard what Mr. Beilstein <beil@domain.elided> says about the
engines.  They are quite durable as I have over 100K miles on mine with no
signs of problems.  Many others have over 100K miles (Pete Read's M5 has
over 110K and probably a dozen driver's schools, I suspect Walt Selva has
even more miles and certainly has even more schools).  They definitely have
NO problems with cracked heads.

European Car's article is found in the November 1998 issue.  If you provide
your address to me (privately) I'll photo copy the article and send it to
you.

Remember these cars are somewhat exotic, so they have somewhat higher
maintenance costs and the M specific parts can be quite expensive (like
$200+ for plug wires), but they aren't hideously expensive to own.  However,
compared to the average Honda, or even newer BMW, they are admittedly more
expensive (like 24 valves to check for clearance in an Inspection II).  One
area to check is insurance rates.  These can be steep.   Some specifics:

1.  Front end shimmy.  Endemic to E28 5 Series cars and post '83 E24 6
Series cars, the usual culprit is the brake thrust arm bushings.  The
common, simple, inexpensive, upgrade is E32 750iL bushings milled to fit.
Steve D'G has 'em.  The shimmy usually starts with warped brake rotors,
which, when uncorrected, trashes the thrust arm bushings.  If the shimmy is
not attended to quickly, the shimmy continues to wreak havoc on the rest of
the front end components resulting in worn control arm and thrust arm ball
joints and worn steering linkage (tie rod ends, center link ball joints,
idler arm bushing).  BMW says 1mm play when squeezed with a large channel
locks indicates worn ball joints, but most mechanics say 1mm indicates they
are nearing the end, but not entirely worn out.

2.  Rear self-leveling - The US M6 came with rear hydraulic self-leveling
suspension.  While I haven't had a problem (knock wood), other have.  The
shocks, control unit, and pump are very expensive.  However, the usual
problem with a bad system is the accumulators.  They run about $150 each.
Another common fix is to convert to standard 635CSi shocks and springs.
Many people do this as a performance upgrade as well.  If you don't worship
the altar of originality, the conversion could be seen as adding value to
the car.

3.  A/C - The US M6 came with dual-zone air conditioning.  People have had
various problems with the rear expansion valve or evaporator.  One fix is to
isolate the rear system and just rely on the front.  A/C parts are NOT
cheap.

4.  TRX Tires (Tyres) - These cars came with special metric sized Michelin
TRX
tires.  You can only purchase TRX tires to fit the stock wheels.  These
tires
are old technology and expensive ($190 each).  Many people have converted to
standard inch size wheels.  Again, an upgrade may be worth more than stock.

5.  Rear Subframe Bushings - Also a common malady for E28 and post-'83 E24
cars, the rear subframe mounting bushings wear out resulting in a slight
"weaving" when cornering hard.  When up on the lift, prying under the
subframe near these mounting bushings should result in a stiff, springy
feel.  If the subframe just lifts, they are likely worn.

6.  Steering Box Mount - There is a hat-shaped mount on the front subframe
that supports the inboard end of the steering box and counters its torque.
This can tear away resulting in funny steering (the wheel is cocked one way
after turning to the left, then cocked the other way when turning to the
right).  Not the easiest fix (involves supporting the engine while the
subframe is out being fixed), but it can be done by an experienced DIYer.

7.  Head Rests Inoperable - Commonly broken, a very simple fix.  Adding a
short piece of wire hangar to the actuator motor drive ensures the drive
cable doesn't slip out of position.

8.  Other - The car is 10 years old.  Rubber seals start to harden and crack
(the intake boots on  the throttle body and between the AFM and the plenum
result in air leaks and rough idle), rubber bushings wear out (sloppy gear
shifter, motor mounts), the leather seats get worn, relays stick (the main
and fuel pump relay should probably be replaced), stuff wears out (fuel
transfer pump, (in-tank) resulting in a stutter coming out of turns on hard
acceleration) etc.  Rust?  Quite possibly; check rocker panels, inner
fenders, shock towers, front fenders.

I hope this hasn't scared you off these cars.  Mine has been very reliable
(knock wood) and I love it.

If you do decide to buy one, prices seem to have hit an all time low.  You
should be able to purchase a very good, relatively low mileage example (less
than 60K miles) for less than $20K, likely around $16 - $18K.  Probably the
best
source for good cars is Roundel.  Of course, you'll pay a premium for these.

As always, when purchasing a used car, buy the best one you can afford, and
have
it checked out by a knowledgeable mechanic.

Regards,
Jim Moran
'88 M6
What if there was a flame war and nobody posted?

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