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RE: ERAM is gone, execpt for questions and one last comment



>Thanks for your response.
>My only concern is that your air tube with the  K/N cone filter is not
>quite the design.    So, you have to be willing to somehow get the ram air
>device  attached to the filter intake tube.  Would you be williing to run
>two runs with and without a filter, and just a screen.
> I would be willing to give you a  screen that would trap any tiny screws
>or pieces of anything.   I havent run without a filter , but as long  as
>one was run just like the other, it would be a fair test.    
>I was really hoping to get someone local and do the test , but i just have
>to trust you with the device to send it back.
>
>Let me know how it will be installed , as the target market for the device
>is owners that have an airbox still.  the air tube would be a great test.  
> Let me know if you have any ideas on how you would test  the unit.
>
>the ERAM is a 4 inch long, 3.35 inch diameter deal.    It only needs duct
>tape for  temp installation.   but for  final install, it needs a 3.5" to 3
>inch adapter, with hose clamps provided.   What is the diameter of the
>intake tube??
>
>
>Mark

Since nobody in their right mind would run an engine on the street without
a filter, don't you think doing a dyno test without one is a bit
unrealistic?  I think it's fair to say that we're all interested in
trapping more than just tiny screws before they get into the HFM.  

If your target market is cars with an airbox installed, then you won't need
to test your device on an engine with the airbox replaced by a shielded K&N
cone.  On the E36 M3 engine, there is a general concensus (proven by dyno
testing) that the stock airbox is too restrictive.  Adding your device to
the OEM airbox may help, but it isn't going to give "real world" results
for those of use who have already removed this restrictive intake.  The
better test would be to see if your device adds anything beyond the K&N
cone filter setup (which, by the way, can be done for less than $100).  

I saw one of your recent posts where you said:

>ILL SAY IT ONE MORE TIME , THE FAN BLOWS IN FREE AIR 550 CFM, UNDER FULL
>LOAD IN A M3 OR 2.5 LITER, IT WILL BLOW AS HARD AS THE ENGINE NEEDS IT TO=
>( about 250 cfm) and it will produce .25 pressure.)

My understanding is that the 3.0 E36 M3 engine pulls much less than 800 cfm
at high RPM/full throttle.  My K&N cone filter flows 800 cfm, so the only
restriction now is the design of the engine itself.  I think it would be a
great test of your device to see if we could get any more horsepower out of
the engine just with the addition of the device.  We could set up the
device so that it blows its extra 550 cfm directly into the K&N cone
filter.  My heat shield is basically an insulated enclosure and with the
device right next to the filter, there shouldn't be any loss of its
function.  If your device works as you suggested, then we should see a 4%
increase in HP from this change.

Ship it to me and I'll get the work done.

Bob Stommel
  

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