RE: E30 Heater problem

[Thi VanAusdal <tvanausdal@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Someone mentioned airflap foam seal glue leakage (what a 
sentence!) in an earlier reply, but the heater valve
control does not use the same mechanics to operate - I
believe (hallelujah!) that the heater control is a rotary
variable opening valve.

I've experienced some springy levers and rotaries over the
years (no offense to Mazda owners, not that type of rotary)
in 2002s, E21s, and now my E30 325is.  I 'bounce' the lever
by pushing it to tolerance, letting it return, then pushing
again to 'rock' the flap into place.  It helps overcome the
tension in the cable or the flap on the other end.

Now for some reason, my heater valve does the same thing,
and I just run the heater through its full cycle a few times
(fullonfullofffullonfulloff ad nauseum) and it irons out the
kink, so to speak.

It helps the heater stay in shape by exercising the valve
once a week during the summer, not an easy thing to do in
Central Texas heat, but first thing in the morning is not
too bad.  Same thing for A/C - run it for a few minutes in
the winter weekly and keep the compressor lubed.

 - thi v.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason E. Markel [mailto:markel@domain.elided]
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 1998 7:44 PM
> To: bmw-digest@domain.elided
> Subject: E30 Heater problem
> 
> 
> I went out to the car on a chilly Monday morning to find my 
> heater resisting
> any attempt to make my car warm.  The heat control knob (left 
> side) rotates
> about halfway with little resistance and then becomes very 
> difficult to turn
> into the heat zone.  I can turn it all the way, but have to 
> hold it there
> and it barely produces heat. Worked fine during the prior 
> week.  It's like
> the whole range has shifted up a half turn.  Anyone else ever 
> experience
> this?  Possible diagnosis? Quick fixes?  How much of the dash 
> am I going to
> be ripping out on Saturday?
> 
> Thanks.
> Jason
> 
> 87 325
> 
> 

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