RE: Trick Wheel Balancing

["Lin, Gary" <Gary.Lin@xxxxxxxx>]

Guys, as someone said before, "Balanced is Balanced, it doesn't matter
where the weights are if the machine reads Zero."  Ignoring the slight
difference about high vs. low Radial Force Variation and the carcass ply
overlap bump (that's what Jointless Line Band overcomes), the weight to
offset a heavy spot can be set 180* (dynamically) away or divided by two
and the angle Y split by (45*, 60*, 90*? Dr. Physics please jump in!)
around the circumference.  Same with splitting the weight in half
between inner and outer lips.  It's all in the calculations.  If the
centerline plane is used for mounting, then it will be accounted for it
if the machine can do it; NTB's basic Coates can be set for rim or
centerline.

If you have a really bad tire, you can unbead it and rotate it 90* or
180* and try again.  Also, I'd suggest just using paint thinner (mineral
spirits) to soak off the sticky tape residue, it's cheap, vs. the clip
ons chunking up all around the rim.

You cannot assume that the red, yellow, green, and blue dots and
triangles all mean the same thing for different manufacturers.  Each
mfr. will use one mark for the heavy spot (match to the valve hole, but
can be ignored because the weights will counteract already; tread spots
will wear off anyway, that's why you rebalance regularly) and one for
the low spot (match to the circumferential high spot on the rim if any).

Gary Lin     Burke, VA     National Capital Ch.
Metro Washington Council of Sports Car Clubs <CSP>
'88 325is lachssilber   Conforti, Supersprint, ///M susp., Ints., R1's

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