Re: [alfa] Removing Broken Engine-to-Transmission Stud?

[bearbvd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Greg Hermann)]

At 9:35 PM 9/19/03, Frank Smith wrote:
>Kevin....
>    BTTT....only times 2...both studs on the slave side.....cut loose on the
>way back from the Florida convention [but that's a long story].....I decided
>to pull the engine, but did decide to drill and remove with Sears
>...relatively new,,,,"Drill Out"......sort of an all in one drill and easy
>out......started perpendicular to the surface and then gradually moved in
>line with the stud.....both came out, but one damaged the threads
>slightly....so that one got a helicoil
>    You could drill out and use bolts.....I debated as this would not need
>an engine pull if it happens again.....but I did stick with the studs
>     Good luck
>      Frank Smith

One of the VERY best ways to remove a broken stud is to lay a (slightly
oversize for the stud) hex nut over the stump--even if it is recessed down
the hole a bit--and then reach inside the hole in the nut with a TIG
(welding) torch and weld the nut to the end of the stud. After it has
cooled about 2/3 of the way, begin turning the stud, back and forth, (via
the nut) with a box end wrench. Apply lots of WD 40 once it is moving, and
remove carefully. The heat helps a LOT with getting it loose.

Greg


>69 1750 Spider
>72 GT JR
>Cockeysville, MD
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kevin Trent" <trentkc@domain.elided>
>To: <alfa@domain.elided>
>Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 9:01 AM
>Subject: [alfa] Removing Broken Engine-to-Transmission Stud?
>
>
>> I've got the transmission out of the '73 GTV as part of a prep project for
>> winter driving, but the engine is still installed.
>>
>> One of (several) repairs is to replace one of the four studs which mount
>in
>> the engine block and extend through the transmission to hold the two units
>> together.  This particular stud is the one above the clutch slave
>cylinder,
>> and it is sheared off such that a) the break is not flat but angled; and
>b)
>> there is no protrusion from the engine block, and the stud remains are
>> slightly recessed.  Furthermore, the flywheel is still on the block which
>> means the thin metal spacer between the block and trans is still in place
>> and generally gets in the way.
>>
>> I'm reluctant to start drilling out the remains of the stud, because the
>> angled shear surface will slide the drill bit into the threaded side of
>the
>> block, and muck it up.  Since the stud remains are slightly recessed and
>> because the metal spacer is still in place (as well as the flywheel which
>> limits working room), trying to weld a nut to the broken stud looks nearly
>> impossible - it would be difficult with the engine out of the car.
>>
>> I really do not want to remove the engine, though access would be a LOT
>> easier.  Examination of a spare engine shows that the stud would be
>> difficult to remove from the opposite (starter) side, though the welded
>nut
>> technique might work.
>>
>> Anyone been there and done this?  Any suggestions??  How about a source
>for
>> replacement studs?
>>
>> Thanks, //KCT Powell, Tennessee  (Burning a vacation day on car repairs)
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