Re: [alfa] Removing Broken Engine-to-Transmission Stud?

["Frank Smith" <alfafan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Kevin....
    BTTT....only times 2...both studs on the slave side.....cut loose on the
way back from the Florida convention [but that's a long story].....I decided
to pull the engine, but did decide to drill and remove with Sears
...relatively new,,,,"Drill Out"......sort of an all in one drill and easy
out......started perpendicular to the surface and then gradually moved in
line with the stud.....both came out, but one damaged the threads
slightly....so that one got a helicoil
    You could drill out and use bolts.....I debated as this would not need
an engine pull if it happens again.....but I did stick with the studs
     Good luck
      Frank Smith
69 1750 Spider
72 GT JR
Cockeysville, MD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Trent" <trentkc@domain.elided>
To: <alfa@domain.elided>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 9:01 AM
Subject: [alfa] Removing Broken Engine-to-Transmission Stud?


> I've got the transmission out of the '73 GTV as part of a prep project for
> winter driving, but the engine is still installed.
>
> One of (several) repairs is to replace one of the four studs which mount
in
> the engine block and extend through the transmission to hold the two units
> together.  This particular stud is the one above the clutch slave
cylinder,
> and it is sheared off such that a) the break is not flat but angled; and
b)
> there is no protrusion from the engine block, and the stud remains are
> slightly recessed.  Furthermore, the flywheel is still on the block which
> means the thin metal spacer between the block and trans is still in place
> and generally gets in the way.
>
> I'm reluctant to start drilling out the remains of the stud, because the
> angled shear surface will slide the drill bit into the threaded side of
the
> block, and muck it up.  Since the stud remains are slightly recessed and
> because the metal spacer is still in place (as well as the flywheel which
> limits working room), trying to weld a nut to the broken stud looks nearly
> impossible - it would be difficult with the engine out of the car.
>
> I really do not want to remove the engine, though access would be a LOT
> easier.  Examination of a spare engine shows that the stud would be
> difficult to remove from the opposite (starter) side, though the welded
nut
> technique might work.
>
> Anyone been there and done this?  Any suggestions??  How about a source
for
> replacement studs?
>
> Thanks, //KCT Powell, Tennessee  (Burning a vacation day on car repairs)
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