Starting problem - was Where's Fred...

[alfacybersite <acs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks to Ian Lomax, Ralph Moorhouse, Kurt Incledon, and Ed Prytherch
for their helpful comments regarding my Alfetta GT starting problem.

'Twas the starter solenoid. Not sure if I'm repeating myself, but the
night before it failed to start I was pulling the gar into the garage
for the night and it wouldn't start. I turned off the fan, and it
started, but felt if it hadn't kicked in on the first rotation it
wouldn't have made it.

I'm thinking new battery time (more anon). Next a.m. it was dead so
switched out batteries, still nothing. Yet the other had been sitting
for a couple of months. After recharging both, still only a click.

Bottom line is I bought a 'new' battery the next day. Actually, for my
car I don't buy new batteries. When I first moved into my shop almost
twelve years ago, there was an Interstate battery place next door. Turns
out they sell really good used batteries for around $20. I've bought
several from them and they almost always last three years, no matter the
brand. They've since moved but I got another one from them since my
battery was dated 7 / 99. Turns out it was okay, but still got another
one so brought both back with me.

While I felt it was cheating, I actually got out the Autobooks Alfetta
manual and read that if headlights dim when turning the key it means
you're getting juice to the starter. They dimmed. That eliminated a lot
of stuff in between.

Time out: I should have included I have Webers and Do have an
aftermarket relay on the starter. Also, and god is this arrogant, but I
try to keep my wiring, especially ignition and main cables in very
pristine condition. I'm constantly amazed at what shoddy condition
batteries, battery boxes, and cables are in when cars come in for
restoration. I don't believe I've had one come in that had the original
battery + connector still on - all have had those horrible bolted on
affairs.

My rear battery box (factory air) looks like new. There is not one iota
of rust, let alone grundgey battery ends. I don't even put Vaseline on
my battery connections (though I do on client's). Pray tell, what does
everyone do to get that horrible crap all over their batteries, trays,
and hoods / trunk lids?

I know it sounds like I'm preaching to those of you who have just been
kind enough to help me, but I've just never understood how they get that
way. My occasional maintenance is to very occasionally take a knife and
clean both the posts and the inside of the connectors and to unscrew the
bolt for the ground cable and squirt a bit of contact cleaner, then
retighten - along with periodic filling of the battery with distilled
water, using a small funnel, then cleaning off any spillage.

I use the smaller starter and had a spare which seemed slow running but
the solenoid popped the pinion gear to the end really quick when
energizing the spade connector. Once removed from the car, the starter
spun freely, but the solenoid would push the pinion gear to the end, but
not hold it there. I switched in the good solenoid, reinstalled the
starter, and she fired right up.

Not trying to sound like The Expert now, but if someone is pretty darn
sure their problem is the solenoid, have a new one at hand, am quite
sure it could be done with the starter in place. Yeah, do undo the
battery connection at the battery.

Just to lend a small hand for those other's who are about to remove
their starter and assuming it has the original bolts, you'll need 13,
14, and 16 mm open end wrenches, then either an 8 or 10 mm socket for
the starter end plate and a 13 mm socket for the retaining bolt
underneath.

A small tip, but last time I replaced the starter I elongated the small
end holes so it is easier to install and remove the end plate which has
to come out first before the starter can be removed. I then used a small
inside diameter, large outside diameter washer (mini fender washer) to
cover my little modification.

Do put the 'shoulder' bolt in the center hole. Not sure if it matters,
but I put on all three nuts / bolts slightly loose, then rotate back and
forth and try to center the 'gap'. Tighten.  I then tighten the end cap
/ support nuts.

Somewhat sorry about the preaching, but do suspect a lot of the 'green
stuff' is from poor grounds. Takes may-be five minutes every now and
again to remove both ends, do a quick clean and reinstall - and all
electric's then work so much better. New ground cables cost about ten
bucks or less. Vaseline is less obtrusive looking than a blob of grease.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA

Now I gotta go do the hard part - reprogram my radio / CD player.

What was wrong with the two wooden knobs [(#1) On, off, volume (#2)
turns dial)], the little pointer, and the backlit plastic dial? Hunh?
(Although I do like my little remote dealy even though the radio is
right behind the shift lever).
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