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Re: Oil From the Pan



If you are talking about leaking from the upper pan-to-block surface then you can try tightening the bolts. I don't see why you would need to loosen them first. You may need to loosen the motor mount-to-frame bolts and jack up the engine a bit to gain access to some of them. You will need to raise the front of the car as well. Take appropriate safety precatuions when working under the car (jack stands, wheel chocks, protective glasses). Shake the car to test it is solid before crawling under it.

Round up all the 11mm wrenches you can find-- box end, open end, stubby, curved, ect., also sockets, u-joints, long extensions, etc.

Easier if you have a friend (pick a friend that has skinny arms and long fingers) to help for the bolts and nuts that are on the sides. One working from above, the other below.

If it still leaks after tightening the pan bolts you can remove the pan while the engine is in the car, to replace the gasket and inspect/clean the mating surfaces. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the head (can still leave them attached to the downpipes) and jack up the engine, put shims under the motor mounts (I used small blocks of plywood) remove all the bolts, pull the pan down and to the front.

The most challenging bolt/nut was the one under/benind the passenger side motor mount bracket.

--Caxambu
1969 Spider 1750
Seattle WA



Brian Pleet writes:

After a tough, long winter, my 1982 Spider is back on the road with new engine mounts, pan gaskets (main and lower) and seals (front main, rear main). Hurray! First time for the novice.

Now, after many hours of work, the main oil pan is leaking, enough to make a mess every time I park in the garage. Apparently only on one side. Help!

Is there an additive that will stop the leak?
Do I have to lift the engine to remove the pans and then replace the gasket?
Can I loosen and then re-torque the bolts holding the pan?
Should I buy a oil mat for underneath and replace regularly?

Any suggestions very welcome.


Brian Pleet
82 Spider
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