'74 Spider Engine Removal Help - Tie Bar - Thank You!!!

[Mike Gallagher <mikebgallagher@xxxxxxx>]

Dear Alfitsi,

Thank you to all that came through with suggestions and recommendations!!!
You were all a big help.  I was presented with a dazzling array of many
different approaches and solutions to choose from.  Bottom line - I was able
to drop one end of the steering linkage just enough to provide the clearance
needed and bingo out she came, transmission and all!

Mike Gallagher
74 Spider
Irvine, CA

Here are some of the options presented:

1.)  One one side or the other, pop the ball joint and drop that side of the
tie rod.  That will give you plenty of clearance.

If you're careful, you can do it with a simple pickle fork, be careful
not to tear the rubber boot.

2.)  You do in fact need to drop one end of the center drag link (tie rod).
Doesn't matter which end. The easiest way to separate the joint without
damage is with a small lever type tie rod separator. A generic one of the
proper size will do fine. A pickle fork will work as well, but will damage
the boot and possibly the joint as well.

Leave the nut on the end of the joint loosely when you use the tool (roughly
even with or a little above the end of the threads). This will protect the
threaded portion of the shaft from becoming deformed.

Twisting the tie rod as you describe is normal and does not indicate any
problems. However, there should be no side to side movement in the joint,
IOW all components should move together as one with no slop in them.

3.)  Any quality tie rod tool will work.  Do not use a pickle fork.
good luck w/ it.

4.)  I always remove the transmission first, then pull the engine.  You do
not have to remove the tie rod that way.
Or you can undo the idler box on the passenger side of the car.  Three bolts
and it will drop out of the way.


5.)  On the passenger side under the fender behind the wheel, there are 3
bolts
that hold the steering to that side of the car..

Pull those 3 bolts and the system will drop out of your way without any
tools
or ruining any tie rod ends etc.

also you need to drop the front anti sway bar down under the nose, leaving
the sides connected.. this gives you room enough for the front pully to get
by.


6.)  Most prefer, as Jeff Greenfield suggests, to drop one end of the center
drag link / tie rod.

It seems most tie rods I find are bent (I'm gonna get that engine out of
here one way or another!) so I loosen the end nuts (believe a 22 mm
wrench - and remember one's clockwise undo and the other counter), clean
everything up a bit so that a spot of white-out will stick on one edge
and simply unscrew it counting revolutions. I invariably get right
around 19 & 1/4 turns. If you're going to move the car around, you'll
need to screw it back on - but now that it's nice and clean (and
straight) it'll screw on and off quite easily.

Yeah, you should have the front realigned, but if you're careful and
watch tire wear, bet you won't feel or notice anything different,
suspension wise, once all is back together.

7.)  Unscrew one end of the center tie rod and whack it
out.  it's that simple.  just bolt it back up after
pulling the engine so you can move the car.

8.)  You'll need a generic screw-type ball joint remover tool like on page
57 of the JC Whitney catalog P/N 88UB1770B cost $9.99. This is all
I've ever used for years on Alfas. I've never been able to pull an
Alfa engine without it.

9.)  Remember to leave the nut on there before you whack it - otherwise
you'll
need a new tierod end.  Don't ask how I know
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