Re: Garage Floors ( mostly non alfa content )

[Johnson David-QA2282 <David.R.Johnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Dan,

I used the epoxy coating on my garage floor a few years ago.  I have a 2 1/2
car garage built on a poured concrete slab.  I used a two-part epoxy coating
that I bought from Home Depot.  I can look up who made it, but I don't think
it was the Rust-Oleum one that Joe Cabibbo mentioned because it didn't have
the color chips.  The so called one-part epoxys and garage floor paints are
supposedly pretty useless and will lift with hot tires.

I put down two layers of the stuff, which took two kits priced at something
like $90 each (the good stuff doesn't come cheap).  It has lasted extremely
well so far, surviving hot tires, coolant oil and brake fluid spills, and
some heat from a propane torch.  It does not scratch or mar easily (it takes
a very heavy impact to leave even a faint mark), and has not shown any signs
of flaking or peeling.  I used a medium gray for better light distribution
without glare.  Seems to have been a good choice.  I love working on this
floor now (except when it's cold!), and it is so much easier to clean too.

Now the caveats.  It is vital to prepare the surface very thoroughly before
putting the stuff on.  I was lucky in having a dry, unsealed concrete
surface to apply it to.  If there is any existing paint, sealant, or in your
case probably glue, it must be completely removed beforehand.  This may
require grinding, which is risky because concrete dust is carcinogenic and
bad for the lungs too - wear a respirator, or better get a professional if
you don't know all the risks and how to avoid them.

Once this is done, the concrete must be degreased and acid etched.  Usually
you would use muriatic acid (caution - not good stuff to breath!).  This is
probably the easiest part to skimp on, but the most important to do right.
We did the acid etch twice.  What is vital is to thoroughly rinse off all
the acid before it dries otherwise the epoxy won't stick.  I have a hose bib
and drain in my garage, which worked well.  Not sure how bad this is for the
environment though...

The concrete also has to be completely dry.  Shouldn't be a problem with an
old slab, but it is simple to test by leaving a piece of plastic sheet on it
and checking for condensation after a day or so.  Putting on the epoxy is
actually the easy part.  We used one of those drill attachments to mix it
well.  There is usually some kind of minimum ambient temperature requirement
for applying it.

I also added some non-slip additive (basically expensive fine grain sand) so
I wouldn't end up on my butt if the floor got wet.  It works, but it is a
bit too coarse for my liking.  Need to wear gloves if you are working at
floor level to avoid skinned knuckles.  If I had to do it over, I would use
less or try to find something smoother.  It does work well for grip though.

Well that is probably more than you wanted to know, but let me know if you
have any questions!

Dave J.
1964 2600 Sprint
1987 Milano Verde
At least half of a 1982 GTV6 in bits (FS -need anything?)
This adds up to 2 1/2 cars in my 2 1/2 car garage!
--
to be removed from alfa, see /bin/digest-subs.cgi
or email "unsubscribe alfa" to majordomo@domain.elided