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Spider top install



Nancy Barnes answer to Brad Howard's question as to how difficult it is
to install a top on an '88 Spider and if $550 is too much to pay to have
it done.

What Nancy included (although the other respondents might have just
assumed) is the part about sanding and repainting the top mechanism -
not to mention the the 22 rear stud situation. I liked her and her
husbands solution of refitting the flat rear 'bow' over the studs by
elongating the holes.

Unless one is replacing a recently (and correctly) installed top
(perhaps necessary because of vandalism) virtually all top mechanisms
are at least somewhat rusty.

I too squirted each of the (15 remaining) studs with PB Blaster on
client's '79 Spider but had to replace the seven previously broken ones.
Cut off the broken ones flush, center punch, drill, then tap with a 6 x
1.0. Using 6 mm x 20 mm hex bolts install the broken side ones from
behind (assuming you've removed the side 'paneling' and have small
hands) and tighten with a 7 mm wrench. For the difficult to impossible
rear ones do essentially the same but put a good dollop of JB-Weld on
the end and screw in from the front. Let dry overnight then cut the
heads off with a Dremel (or?).

While sometimes necessary, I hate temporary fixes. That is what most
upholstery shops (not to mention owners) do when it comes to the
mechanism. I like to use epoxy primer after removing rust, then use a
high quality rust preventive type gloss / semi-gloss black paint. This
alone can take a number of hours. Then you have the fun of installing
the top mechanism (not too difficult) and gluing without getting yellow
contact cement all over - especially around the bows.

Should the top not fit correctly after it is installed, there are
adjustments for the tops mechanism as well as to the side windows which
can take up several more hours.

$550 is somewhat on the high side for an '88, more than a fair price for
a '66 to '69.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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