Re: GTV-6, broken lugs, advice needed

["Joseph Kanellopoulos" <kanellj@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hmm.....

what are the specs for the milano? I have looked in the shop manual and
cannot find the torque for it in there so I have been torqueing at
90ft-lbs..... which I would guess from what I have just read that it might
be a little too tight..... Would the current studs be in danger from the
overtorqueing if I torque them down to 80 now?

If you have pressed the studs out, and then back into the rotor again does
that affect them adversely, and do you need to possibly overtorque the first
time you install the wheels?

Also, on the subject of torquing I had read somewhere that aluminum wheels
do require re-torquing about 200 miles every time they are put on, is that a
common misonception resulting from overtorquing the lugs or is it truly
something that has to do with possible compressibility of the aluminum?

Thanks,

Joseph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Shorey" <bshorey@domain.elided>
To: <ALfactor@domain.elided>
Cc: <alfa-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:41 PM
Subject: RE: GTV-6, broken lugs, advice needed


> <snip>
> > Also always torque to to the correct value, and leave the anti-sieze
> in the
> > toolbox.  Torque specifications for WAP are dry.  (at least for
> trucks). I
> > think we have a video on CD if anyone is interested e-mail me and I'll
> try to
> > find a copy.
> <snip>
>
> I don't want to argue with the professional (I'm still smarting over the
> whole Ohms law thing..), but having had to deal with more than my share
> of frozen lugnuts in my time, I've always used a hint of never-seize on
> my lugnuts, and never had one come loose.
>
> I understand that the torquing specs are intended for dry, and maybe I
> torque to the high end of the range to account for the never-seize, but
> have you seen failures due to the use of never-seize?  Or, if it's not
> used, how do you typically remove the frozen ones?
>
> bs
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