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Re: Clutch questions S4 spider



Hi C.M.:

If the slave cylinder isn't leaking (see below, or just look for a puddle), that would suggest the master cylinder seals are getting too worn. In 25 years of Alfa ownership, I've learned to buy new hydraulics rather than attempt rebuilding. Rebuilds do generally work, but just for a short while, as if the internal cylinder surfaces aren't mirror-smooth, the new seals will quickly become as worn and leaky as the ones you replaced. It also seems to be statistically true that if you replace the master, the slave will need replacing soon, too. So, just replace them both, change your fluid annually, and you'll be good for many years. Don't forget the rubber hose, too, as it's just a few $ extra.

Having said all that, if it is the slave that's leaking, try replacing that alone, and that may fix things. The slave is exposed to a much harsher environment, so they tend to not last as long. Peel back the dust boot on the actuating rod, and if it's at all wet in there, replace it. When installing the new cylinder into the sleeve on the bellhousing, first clean the bore with some fine sandpaper to remove any corrosion, and then coat it liberally with anti-seize compound. This will pay dividends next time the cylinder needs to be removed. And. position the new cylinder with the bleeder at 12 o'clock, or you'll have trouble getting all the bubble out during bleeding.

While you're under the Spider, it might be fun to change the gearbox oil, too. It's probably ready for it, but even if not, almost no one puts in the proper lubricant. The correct oil is Shell Spirax, which is a 90w gear oil without Hypoid additives. Those additives are too slippery for proper synchro operation, and the correct oil makes a world of difference in how the gearbox operates and feels. The Spirax can be tough to find (you might find a Shell wholesale distributor in the Yellow Pages), but a great alternative is Kendall Nitro 70w motor oil. You'll need just over 2 quarts, so buy three. Always remove the filler plug before you do the drain plug, as if you drain the oil and then can't break loose the filler, . . . . If the incorrect oil was previously used, it may take a few hundred miles for you to feel the improvement in shifting, but it will happen.

If you need any clarifications, don't be afraid to ask. I almost forgot, good luck with the new Spider.

Regards,

Dean
Lutz, FL
'74 & '87 Spider Veloce's


At 12:24 PM 4/5/2003, you wrote:

Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 06:39:37 -0700
From: "C.M. Bereznoff" <cmbereznoff@domain.elided>
Subject: Clutch questions S4 spider

I am the proud new owner of a 93 S4 spider with 68K miles.  The car came
from humid Florida and now lives in Colorado.  The problem is that when the
car arrived, the clutch didn't always want to disengage.  The plates
contacted as the pedal moved less than an inch from the floor.
The fluid was very dirty so I changed it.  Now the pedal travel is
appropriate but occasionally it will not shift into first gear without
"pumping up" the clutch pedal.   The fluid looks dirty again.   Soooo,,,,
whats up.   air in the lines?  a bad master or slave?  bad tranny fluid?
clutch pedal pivot problem?    any suggestion appreciated.
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