Re: alfa-digest V9 #381

[George Graves <gmgraves@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Since you HAVE to take the belt off to get at the front cam seals 
(which one should always change when changing cams), you just replace 
it with a new one. Also, do not change the belt without changing the 
tensioner (if its one of the mechanical ones) and checking for leaks if 
it's the factory hydraulic tensioner. Rule of thumb on Alfa 12-valve 
V-6's: if you have to remove the belt, replace it. At around $US20 (for 
the Goodyear part # 40120) It's cheap insurance. Since teardown is the 
same, also ALWAYS replace the water pump. Never replace a belt without 
replacing the mechanical tensioner and checking a hydraulic one for 
leaks. If you don't and the mechanical tensioner's spring goes bad 
(they tend  to pop out of the housing like the mainspring on a cheap 
clock), your belt will skip time.

This is one area on the V-6 that it is just not prudent to be 
nonchalant about. A broken belt or one that skips time can destroy the 
engine before you can say Nicola Romeo. It's not worth the risk just to 
save a few bucks. Just my opinion, you understand, but I have learned 
these lessons the hard way and I hope that by passing this along I can 
save you from doing the same.


George Graves
'86 GTV-6
now with 3.0 liter 'S' engine
and Power Steering



On Monday, March 31, 2003, at 03:43 PM, alfa-digest wrote:


> Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:39:45 +0000
> From: webb.p@domain.elided
> Subject: V6 timing belt, the well worn subject...
>
> I'm going to be installing new cams in my Verde.  How much extra work 
> is it to
> change the timing belt at the same time?  Lets assume that I'm not 
> replacing
> the water pump or tensioner, just the belt itself.
>
> I'd have to go back to the records to find out how old the current one 
> is.  I'm
> pretty sure it's well within expected life.
>
> TIA
>
> - -Peter
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