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Re: Milano Sway Bar Q
Ethan Schartman wrote:
i pulled the sway bar off my '87 gold yesterday. i
need to pull the old end link bushings off, and have a
quick question: where does the bushing end and the
sway bar begin? i ask because there is a small metal
lip around the bar where the 2 mate and i can't tell
if it bushing or bar. it looks like bar, but then i'm
slightly puzzled about how the sway bar bushing are
supposed to slip over this lip.
Ethan,
The swaybar bushings are comprised of a plastic outer sleeve
(polypropylene?) surrounding the rubber isolation material which in turn
surrounds a metal sleeve that fits on the reduced diameter end of the
swaybar. I think that the *lip* that you're seeing is the end of the
bushing's metal sleeve. On my GTV6, the very end of the swaybar is
chamfered where it protrudes out of the bushing sleeve. There is an odd
tapered washer that is sandwiched between the swaybar and the other end of
the bushing sleeve.
I removed the old bushings from the swaybar ends using my trusty Dremel
tool. I used a miniature toothed saw blade to cut through the plastic outer
sleeve and through the rubber isolation material in several locations. I
then grabbed the cut material with pliers and tore it free of the bushing's
inner sleeve. I then loaded the Dremel tool with a carbon fiber cutoff
wheel (one of the world's greatest inventions) and *carefully* cut the metal
sleeve lengthwise until it was *almost* cut through to the swaybar. I then
took a big flat bladed screwdriver, stuck it in the longitudinal slot, and
applied torque until the remaining sleeve material split.
The shop manual is awfully optimistic when it shows the technician simply
pounding the new bushing onto the swaybar with a driver and a B.F. hammer.
I tried that, and ended up with a ruined bushing stuck halfway on the end of
the swaybar. After ordering another bushing, I (again) carefully cut the
ruined bushing off. *This* time, I decided to press the bushing in place.
However, the obvious problem is that the curved swaybar doesn't provide a
good purchase upon which to press (did I really write that?). I eventually
devised an appliance, made out of steel bar stock and a couple of bolts,
that allowed me to press the bushings into place. I can't really describe
it here and I don't have a scanner or a digital photo, but if you'd like to
send me a fax number off digest, I can fax a sketch to you.
By the way, Harbor Freight & Northern Tool both carry a 12 ton hydraulic
press for only about $120 that doesn't take up much floor space. It's not a
finely wrought tool, but I've found this press to be a great investment and
highly recommend it.
Good luck with the bushings.
Bert Neily
Raleigh NC
'84 GTV6
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