Bosch Spider spark plugs, boots, and resistors?

[JeffreyOlson@domain.elided]

I had Lodge HL's in a high-mileage '84 Spider that seemed prone to oil fouling 
since I would pick up some occasional mild mis-firing.

I swapped to supposedly hotter NGK BP5ES spark plugs and also noticed the 
resistor-type spark plug boots just didn't seem to stay seated.  I removed the 
intermediate boot and was able to get a secure connection.  Also found my coil 
wire to be badly corroded inside the distributor cap.

Good news is the NGK plugs look pretty clean and at least appear to be hot 
enough to burn off oil deposits without any indication of pre-ignition or mis-
firing.  I realize this is a band-aid but it seems to work since the Lodge HL's 
had oil deposits that seemed to be the cause of the slight mis-fire.  The 
suggested NGK plug is a BP6ES, cooler than the BP5ES I bought at NAPA for $1.50 
each.

Supposedly the Bosch-style plug connectors OR resistor spark plugs are to 
prevent any electrical interference with the F.I. components.  I haven't 
noticed any problems using the now regular-type plug wires and NON-resistor 
sparks plugs.

An alternate to the NGK BP5ES in the same heat range is a Bosch W8DC.  I happen 
to have a set of resistor-type Bosch WR8DC from some unknown past project.  
Wonder if I should use those if I'm running regular-type spark plug connectors 
or if there is any difference between these and the regular Bosch W8DC's?

What's the deal with resistor-type plugs anyway?  As I understand, it helps 
prevents electrical interference and is easily 'pushed' through by a 1,000 
volts or so and a modern coil puts out something like 20,000 volts.

By the way 150+ psi compression on all 4 cylinders!  Still can't get this thing 
to squeek through NC emissions w/o a catalytic converter.  I can get the either 
HC ppm's or %CO below limits by adjusting the idle mixture but not both at the 
same time!  The Shankle test pipe might have to go.  

I figure a little too much oil is making its way past the valve seals and 
raising the HC's.  I tried 'Engine Restore' and 'Guaranteed to Pass' but 
didn't...wonder if I get my money back?

New filters, plugs, oil change, no vacuum leaks, idle set to specs, and it just 
won't do it.  I figure I'll swap the test pipe with a new converter just to get 
the car to pass emissions!  Just can't justify rebuilding the cylinder head 
since the oil consumption is minimal, the compression good, and the car runs 
well.

Jeff

'78 Spider (For Sale!)
'84 Spider Veloce
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