1750 rebuild cost

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

In #94 Joe Cantrell, in answering the question if $4.2k is too much to
pay for a 1750 engine rebuild, comments: "In my humble, that's about
double what you ought to pay.  I have heard a mechanic boast that he
wouldn't do a complete overhaul for less than $4K, but this ain't 1999,
and he'll never know how much that comment cost him."

***********

Since Fred has turned into such a nice guy lately someone has to carry
on the curmudgeon tradition: Let's see now Joe, you're looking to buy a
new house. To seal the deal you tell the owner who wants $300k for his
house you'll give him $150k since it ain't 1999 anymore?

Has anyone's living costs significantly decreased 'merely' because the
economy is in the toilet? I doubt it.

If one looks at the big picture of rebuilding an Alfa 4-cylinder engine,
$4.2k is somewhere between quite reasonable and downright cheap.

I'm also aware there are a few of you out there who think $5k for a
paint job is a tad expensive, especially when you can get One-Day Paint
to do a 'bang-up' job for around $.5k.

(Really big sigh).

I'm estimating my combined machine shop and parts expenses are around
$2.7k per engine - to do it right.

Without going through the complete list of outside work and parts I'll
include a few items not mentioned in Peter Krause's post: Hot tanking
the block and head (after the engine has been thoroughly cleaned on the
outside), indexing the rods, resurfacing the clutch pressure plate,
grind and or polish crankshaft journals, remove / replace oil galley
plugs in crank, rebush rods and index, drill & install flywheel pilot
bushing, balance rods, pistons, crank with flywheel & clutch pressure
plate, resurface cylinder head.

Then, what about the Spica (I'm assuming here)? It should at least be
thoroughly cleaned and new gaskets made where not available. Or - get a
rebuilt unit.

Since the radiator is out it should at least be cleaned. Oops, radiator
shop says they're going through when trying to rod out. Perhaps include
a new core.

True, some of this isn't technically part of an engine job, but why not
take care of all possible problem areas while the engine and tranny are
out?

Parts not mentioned in Peter's post: Exhaust & inlet valves, valve
guides, valve springs, valve shims, Teflon valve seals, Viton O-rings,
crankshaft plugs, clutch disc, throw-out (release) bearing, water pump,
radiator / heater hoses, new hose clamps, Spica and engine oil filters,
oil, coolant, spark plugs, (possibly) ignition wires, points, condenser,
fan / alternator & Spica belt, brass nuts for exhaust to head studs, and
driveshaft donut.

Things to consider: Replace bearings & synchro rings in transmission,
polish / beadblast / powder coat / or wrinkle paint cam cover, sandblast
& high-heat paint exhaust manifold, zinc plate all appropriate hardware,
rebuild / replace clutch & brake MC's, replace clutch slave cylinder,
rebuild starter & alternator, cams, tappets / valve buckets, and remove
all peripheral items in engine bay and repaint.

Oh yeah, who exactly 'gets' to remove the engine / tranny and then
replace?

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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