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Fw: Alfa Tools



I originally sent this to Dana off line, then I got to thinking that if he
needed this information, maybe someone else did, too.  Hope it helps someone.
Skip
67 Duetto
Norfolk Va

----- Original Message -----
From: skippatnode
To: Dana Loomis
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: Alfa Tools


Dana, I made a tool for the front springs using a piece of 1/4" flat bar 11"
long by 2 1/2" wide.  Drilled two 3/8 holes 9 1/8" apart. (One at each end!)
Then took two pieces of 3/8" all-thread 10" long with appropriate nuts and
washers.
I remove two spring pan bolts opposite each other, (usually NOT the one that
holds the sway bar and it's mate).  Then, install the all-thread thru the bolt
holes with the flat bar across the bottom of the spring pan and tighten the
nuts.  Remove the other two bolts from the spring pan.  Alternately loosen the
nuts on the all-thread and let the pressure off the spring.  You can speed
things up a little by catching the entire apparatus with your floor jack after
it has come down a ways. (The car doesn't weigh enough to take the spring out
with the jack from the fully compressed postion).  Installation of the new
springs is just a reverse of the removal process.  Takes me about 20 minutes
to get a spring out and back in using this method.
Of course, the car needs to be supported at the frame with jack stands and the
suspension just dangling down.  But, you knew that already!

For the transmission bushing, I have two pieces of pipe 2 3/4" long.  One has
an ID of 2.505" and the other has an OD of 2.500".  A piece of 3/8" All-thread
9 1/2" long and two 3" washers made from that same 1/4" flat stock and I have
a tool that resembles a cabinate punch.  As you tighten the all-thread, the
small dia. pipe pushes the mount into the larger dia. reciever pipe for
removal.  Installation is a reverse of the proceedure but since the hole is
off set on the new bushing, you have to be careful to not get the new bushing
cocked as it goes in.

Also, the rear springs even though you didn't ask.  Again support the car by
the frame with jack stands.  Let the differential hang by the retainer straps.
Disconnect the rear sway bar. Take the bottom nuts off the shocks.  Put your
jack under the rear of the trailing arm, pull the bolt and let her down.  Boy,
did I feel stupid when I learned that trick!!  I fought one for hours with a
spring compressor trying to get it apart!!

Oh, yeah.  And if you drop both trailing arms, you can now undo the nut that
holds the "T Bar" bushing at the top of the differential, push the differntial
sideways in it's straps and change the bushing without much hassle.

Any questions?  Give me a holler.
Skip
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