Re: Alfa Tools

[Dana Loomis <dloomis@domain.elided>]

 My friend Skip offered good suggestions about how to do various
maintenance operations on 105 Alfas without the factory tools I was
looking for.  I do appreciate the suggestions, but I've done all the jobs
Skip described many times with makeshift tools--which work well enough. 
In spite of that, I'd like to have the factory tools because they're
nicer and make the work easier.  The factory front spring compressor is
especially handy; the job goes so much faster than with the all-thread
method, although you do have to get the car way up in the air.  I have to
admit, though, that Skip's home-made tool for changing the transmission
bushing sounds really clever.  I'll make one of those up, since I don't
expect to find the factory tool any time soon.

Dana

At 03:23 PM 11/26/02 -0500, you wrote:

  Dana, I made a tool for the front springs using a piece of 1/4" flat
  bar 11" long by 2 1/2" wide.  Drilled two 3/8 holes 9 1/8" apart.
  (One at each end!)  Then took two pieces of 3/8" all-thread 10" long
  with appropriate nuts and washers.

I remove two spring pan bolts opposite each other, (usually NOT the one
that holds the sway bar and it's mate).  Then, install the all-thread
thru the bolt holes with the flat bar across the bottom of the spring pan
and tighten the nuts.  Remove the other two bolts from the spring pan. 
Alternately loosen the nuts on the all-thread and let the pressure off
the spring.  You can speed things up a little by catching the entire
apparatus with your floor jack after it has come down a ways. (The car
doesn't weigh enough to take the spring out with the jack from the fully
compressed postion).  Installation of the new springs is just a reverse
of the removal process.  Takes me about 20 minutes to get a spring out
and back in using this method.
Of course, the car needs to be supported at the frame with jack stands
and the suspension just dangling down.  But, you knew that already!
 
For the transmission bushing, I have two pieces of pipe 2 3/4" long.  One
has an ID of 2.505" and the other has an OD of 2.500".  A piece of 3/8"
All-thread 9 1/2" long and two 3" washers made from that same 1/4" flat
stock and I have a tool that resembles a cabinate punch.  As you tighten
the all-thread, the small dia. pipe pushes the mount into the larger dia.
reciever pipe for removal.  Installation is a reverse of the proceedure
but since the hole is off set on the new bushing, you have to be careful
to not get the new bushing cocked as it goes in.
 
Also, the rear springs even though you didn't ask.  Again support the car
by the frame with jack stands.  Let the differential hang by the retainer
straps.  Disconnect the rear sway bar. Take the bottom nuts off the
shocks.  Put your jack under the rear of the trailing arm, pull the bolt
and let her down.  Boy, did I feel stupid when I learned that trick!!  I
fought one for hours with a spring compressor trying to get it apart!!
 
Oh, yeah.  And if you drop both trailing arms, you can now undo the nut
that holds the "T Bar" bushing at the top of the differential, push the
differntial sideways in it's straps and change the bushing without much
hassle.
 
Any questions?  Give me a holler.
Skip
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