Re: Repair of cracked 115 clutch bellhousing?

[Fred & Mel Zimmermann <fredmelzimm@domain.elided>]

Several years ago, we had a cracked bell housing at the starter area on our 71
GTV. . Actually the bell housing where the starter mounts snapped off and left
the starter hanging. The starter was the larger one and  it's been long enough
now, that I don't remember the exact ratings. I think there was a 0.8  and a
1.2. The number of teeth  on the flywheel was different for each one. So we
counted the teeth and checked manuals, made calls and double checked thru three
replacement bell housings, until we finally found the reason that the bell
housing cracked. It was vibration caused by the output shaft of the
transmission. It is a ball and socket type design and our ball was egg shaped.
With a new transmission shaft and bronze bushing that it mates to, along with
the new replacement bell housing, it is now vibration free. Matter of fact it
is the smoothest of all of our cars. Check your spider when driving on the
highway by simply placing your finger on the gear shift. It should have minimal
vibration. If you  can feel vibration, that is likely the reason your bell
housing is cracked. Finding our problem was a long expensive and frustrating
experience. Good luck with your problem.
Fred Zimmermann
67 Duetto
69 Berlina
71 GTV
53 Chevy

Kevin Trent wrote:

> After removal of the starter from my '73 spider for servicing I found that
> the clutch bellhousing was cracked where the starter bolts up.  At this
> point it is a crack that starts between the bottom and middle bolt holes
> then extends up around the middle mount hole and ends just short of the top
> mount hole, about 3 inches in length.
>
> I'm thinking of using my MIG welder to put a few plug welds on the crack to
> prevent it from breaking completely.  I don't have the time or inclination
> to remove the transmission at this time, and want to do the repair in the
> car, believing that I have room to access the crack with the weld gun, and
> the exterior bellhouse surface is not greasy.  I would be able to clean it
> further with a solvent.
>
> The procedure I would use is:
>
> Use ER5356 (versus ER4043) .035 aluminum wire with Argon gas; try to
> preheat the area with a propane torch; give it a final clean with a
> stainless steel brush, and then hit it with a series of plug welds.
>
> Questions:  Anyone done this??  Should I start the weld plugs at the end of
> the crack (where it stops) or the beginning (edge of the
> bellhousing)?  Suggestions??
>
> Thanks!  //KCT, Powell, TN
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