Things to know about pulling engine/trans

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

Yes, definitely move the engine lifting bracket forward to the next two
studs. Don't believe it was included but good to make sure the engine
mounts are loose and the ground cable removed. When removing the center
tie rod, clean the ends well first and put a line of Liquid Paper and a
dot on the opposite side. Count revolutions as you remove. Chances are
one side will require one or 1 1/2 additional revolutions to remove.
Write down each side. Anyone want to start a lottery? I'll say 19 turns
on the left side and 20.25 on the right.

I've repeated this several times and well aware everyone who has removed
their fair share of 4-cylinder engines has 'the perfect method'. All I
can say, 'my method' can be done all by your lonesome, though company is
nice.

Assuming you have room and the driveway doesn't go down too quickly /
steeply, remove the front car stands. I find it considerably less
terrifying when the engine isn't way, way up there and also, most engine
hoists only go up so far. Leave the rear one's in place. Place your
floor jack under the very end of the transmission (after having  removed
driveshaft, mount, etc. Make sure the wheels of the jack are headed
forward.

Then simply start lifting and slowly pulling the engine hoist backward.
Check the condition of the transmission, but 'trolley' should pull along
just fine. There will come a point where you might want to either lower
or raise the end of the transmission. Possibly a little of each as the
engines goes up and forward.

When all is sitting safely on the floor, time for a 'sip' of your
favorite beverage.

However, this is a good time to lift up again, plug any holes with tape
/ rags and give it a good cleaning.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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