Re:1991+ Spiders-- how good?

[Jarmanhome@domain.elided]

Mr Greg Youngblood asks:

"How well do the 91 and newer spider's perform? How much power
etc? Any common problems? Do they leak easily? I've got a 74 in moderately
rough shape, but still a blast to drive. How do the 91+ spiders compare to
the older spiders? How about to other comparable years/brands?"

"I'm considering trying to get a newer (91+) spider in the next 3-6 months
or so. What price range should I expect for one in good condition? I've
been seeing about 10 to 14 thousand on a few I quickly glanced at online"


Well... I bought my '91 new, some 55K miles back, in May 1992.   Granted, it 
has not had a hard life, except for some on again/off again autocrossing, but 
it has carried Irene and I on many a long trip with zero problems.   My 
Spider has been dead reliable all these years, but I will say too that I have 
maintained it by the book, and raised it on Castrol 20W50 Syntec.  Alfa made 
many, many detail improvements to the Spider when the series 4 came along, 
and these bits are not readily apparent without some knowledgeable snooping 
around.  The magazines were all full of hooey at the time when they accused 
Alfa of simply re-bodying the '66 Duetto several times over.  Electrically, 
they are the best 115 Spiders, period.  The Bosch Motronic responds to 
"chipping" well, I have a very effective AR chip in mine.  Even stock, they 
run well, although don't pick on later Miatas.  Don't expect any huge 
differences in the chassis either, compared to the Spica era cars, although 
modern 15" wheels and tires really help absolute adhesion.  My car will do 
about 124-125 flat out, and will accelerate with the original Dodge Neons, 
Miata 1800, or Nissan 240 SX cars, to give you an idea of what's possible 
with minor mods.  So yes, the 2000 gives you better torque (not 
surprisingly), and there are items available to improve power output without 
going to an all-out 200bhp race motor.  Handling is typically very forgiving 
and stable, and as Henry N. Manney once said of the GTZ, "One has to be a 
real nit to get it off the road."

Leaks?  Top, or oil?  Hey- it's an Alfa.  It'll never be as dry down there as 
a two year old Toyota, OK?  But nothing major, just a drip here and there, 
which to me is acceptable.  It uses no oil at all between changes (5K).  I 
keep a sheet metal pan under the sump area with a bit of floor dry in it.  If 
you mean the top, then no- it's a very leak-resistant design if adjusted and 
maintained well.  I haven't driven great numbers of older 115 Spiders, but 
compared to the ones I have driven, my car is smoother, quieter and a tad 
more refined (except for the well known cowl shake).  

There have been no major problems, period.  The speedometer/odo and tach have 
been repaired and/or replaced, the first time on warranty.  The Sanden A/C 
compressors are incapable of keeping their bearings intact, although going to 
minimum tension on the serpentine belt seems to prolong the inevitable 
compressor clutch/bearing failure.  That's why many series 4 Spiders have 
non-functional A/C, and the fact that ARDONA reamed customers for years with 
$900+ replacement compressors didn't help matters.  Fortunately, competitive 
pressures brought along good old capitalists like AlfaBill, Ricambi and 
others now selling new Sanden units at a reasonable profit, under $500, with 
a warranty.   No reason not to have working A/C now, especially replacing the 
R12 with cheaper, newer tech refrigerants.  The weld failures on the clutch 
pedal pivot arm are not limited to the later cars- I cured mine for good by 
mig-welding the shaft back to the stamped arm (now fail, you ornery 
so-and-so!).   I've replaced the u-joints, clutch and transmission mount 
bushing, but that's understandable when you consider years of standing starts 
at the autocross course.
I have maintained the battery, cables and grounds religiously, and in the 
winter I use the battery tender from IAP to maintain correct voltage.  I have 
kept the head torqued, the timing chain tensioned, electrical bits clean, 
oil/filters changed, valve clearances within spec, and fluids topped up, and 
my Spider has never let me down on the road, anywhere.  I have obeyed the 
sage advice of going easy on her until warmed up, also.  

Expect to pay at least $9000 for one, and that's a real buy if it's in nice 
condition.  A really sharp, low miles series 4 Spider example will bring the 
prices quoted.  And no, mine is not (nor will be) for sale!   It'll go to 
Mikey one of these days.  Good luck!

Dave Jarman
Lexington, KY
USA
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