Cromadora wheel restoration

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

Brian, I rant and rave about painting rims a lot, but they do turn out nice and
have probably painted over 60 rims at this point. Ironically, the rims I
painted a week ago were the first ones for myself. While they're currently
mounted and resting in the bathroom (space is at a premium), I'll have to see
how they actually hold up.

Gun: John H. gave you good advice. I also recommend getting a quality HVLP gun.
One thing you should decide ahead is whether you want a 'top-loader' or a
'bottom-loader'. I purchased a Binks M1-G HVLP (red body). It's gravity feed
(top-loader) which I have mixed emotions on. However, do like the fact no paint
is wasted as it sucks every last drop out of the canister.

The gun is rated to be used at 18 psi. I cheat and use around 30 to 35. And
yes, I do get more over spray but a better finish. I'm going to experiment more
in the future, add a bit more reducer, and try shooting at a slightly lower
pressure.

>From top to bottom the gun is around 18" since I have added a pressure
regulator / dial, and in-line filter, and of course a Binks quick release hose
fitting.

Unfortunately my favorite is a cheapy Asian small gun (Astro) which I use on
rims and various other smaller projects. I like the smallness, the 'trigger' on
top, it's easy to clean, and it seems to be almost indestructible. I dropped it
once. Stupid, stupid, but it still works.

Sometimes I dial the pressure down to around 20# to avoid over spray and spray
small areas. However, there is more orange peel doing this.

I recently bought a Paasche airbrush set (Harbor Freight $60) for really small
fix it up spots. I add blender to the paint which thins and makes it better
blend in with the surrounding paint. I need to come up with a better air source
for it.

You say you're set up okay on the "air compressor, the plumbing, the filter,
the dryer, etc.". While I'm not doubting you, allow me to pontificate yet more:
When it became obvious I needed something more pro than my little ancient Sears
compressor  on wheels, I looked around. As usual I had no budget, but when the
fellow across the way offered to sell me a 1964 60 gal. air compressor for
$400, I thought why not. True, that was only the beginning since I needed to
have it wired for 240 (wired a clothes dryer, but wasn't going to tackle this).
About $250 later it was set up to run. Oh, also bought a new filter / muffler
from Grainger which brought the decibels down to very tolerable levels.

I sort of designed my own dryer system. Good old Home Depot. Coming from the
compressor is a 5' hose attached to an amateur type dryer; then a series of
soldered together 1/4" copper pipes which go 40' and drop 8" from end to end;
then it T'sgoing down 18" to a ball valve, going up 4" then over  3" then down
12" then attaching to another dryer and then the outlet to the 30' 3/8" air
hose.

On humid days I'm fairly busy between 'shootings' opening / closing  the
various valves, but have seen no sign of the dreaded water in the paint
providing I do this frequently and also use my gun's in-line filter as the
final line of defense.

Hey you 1,300 guys and one babe in the back row, Wake UP! There will be a test
on this and it will definitely reflect on your final grade...not to mention
your permanent record!

Wheel paint: I shall divulge my secret formula this one time and one time
onlyso, dammit, take notes!

To repeat, if they're only slightly chipped clean thoroughly with T.S.P. and
fill chips with Evercoat Metal Glaze polyester finishing putty (100416). If you
have a bunch of chips, scrapes, etc., have bead blasted if they're not steel.
Dry sand with 180 until smooth.

Set up outside (or spray booth, I suppose if you want to get fancy) on stolen
metal milk containers with large cardboard underneath. Blow off, use tack rag,
and start with the undersides.

Spray PPG non sanding epoxy primer light (gray) DP50LF mixed with either
DP401LF or DP402LF catalyst. You don't gotta sand and it will seal in anything
even remotely bad forever on.

There are about two billion variations of metallic silver. Your choice but this
is as close as I could come to Cromodora silver and have used vast amounts of
it with no complaints. Unfortunately you'll have to order from El Monte Auto
Paint / 626-448-6137. I'd start with a quart (DuPont ChromaBase) and see how
you like it. It's listed under the company name Alpha (pure coincidence) MIM
Silver #35. You'll also need DuPont's 7175S (which is a mid temp) ChromaSystem
Basemaker. Apparently there is a catalyst for this, but since it sets up in
five minutes, why bother?

Now there's a strange thing with Cromodora rims. They used a yellow / green
primer and gather they didn't spray on a whole bunch of base coat. Consequently
the color gets a slightly yellowish tinge over the years. Some restorers have a
bit of yellow (brass?) metallic added to the mix to match the patina. I chose
to go with how the rims were originally delivereda very neutral silver.

Not sure if it was a price thing or what, but we settled on using Nason (now a
division of DuPont) Ful-Thane 466-00 2.1 Voc Clearcoat. It works and looks
great. Do clean your new gun extra well since it seems a bit impervious to
lacquer (gun) cleaner. You'll also need some Nason 483-56 catalyst and Nason
441-66 (VOC exempt standard) reducer.

Confused, thinking about going back to Eastwood? One little tip I used was to
put circles on the clearcoat top's stuff and stars on the silver stuff.

We're not through: Whenst doing Joe's Borrani steel rims on his '60 Veloce, I
decided to use a duller clearcoat: PPG Flexed " N" Flat DCU2060 clear, with
DCX61 high solids hardener (catalyst), and PPG DT870 reducer. Oh ya, used a #
sign as the code for this stuff.

Allow about 30 minutes (you'll know) before turning rims over after primering.
Allow around 10 minutes after doing the silver (base) coat. Allow around 30 to
50 minutes before turning the clear coat. You'll want to spray around 3 to 4
coats if you're using the PPG dull clearcoat. It dries quickly though.

Have I left anything out?

Hey, I could come back and talk some more on the subject. Who back there said,
"They're 'just' rims?" Tess, you should be ashamed. Your GPA just dropped major
bigtime and furthermore, you're grounded.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA

***********

Brian Shorey wrote:

> <snip>
> > On Sunday, I laid out in the shade the five rims, cleaned, primered with
> > two-part epoxy primer where filling sanding took place, let dry for
> > about 30 minutes, sprayed two coats of quality silver from a non spray
> > can (which dries immediately), then applied one good coat (both sides of
> > course) of quality clear, again from a non spray can.
>
> Ok,
>
> So I've been setting up space for a paint booth.  I'm still a good auto
> painting class away from painting an actual car, but wheels would be good to
> practice on.
>
> I've got 16 - 20 wheels that I need to clean up and paint, at $50 per four
> wheel kit (Eastwood or Griots), I think it might be time to go ahead and put
> that money towards a real paint gun, paint, etc.
>
> So..
>
> I've got the air compressor, the plumbing, the filter, the dryer, etc.  Any
> recommendations on a gun?  I'm the type that would rather pay for a quality
> tool up front, and I'll be looking to use this on a real car in the future.
>
> What about paint?  What's the best stuff to use on Alfa wheels (I've got
> some Campagnolos, some Momos, some Ronals, I'd be happy to get them all
> close to the original Campagnolo color).
>
> Where do you go shopping for stuff like this?
>
> Tia,
>
> bs

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