re: Spider crankshaft / block tolerance & nitriting questions

["Giller,Bruce C." <bgiller@domain.elided>]

Dan,
	I recently asked the same question concerning the crank in my '73 GTV. 
As always I got several answers:

	- don't ever machine a Alfa crank, get a good used one
	- yes, you can grind them and not re-nitrite them
	- yes, you can grind them and then re-nitrite them
	- not worth the cost to grind/re-nitrite, get a good used one for less

	I was fortunate in that my crank didn't need to re-ground, just
polished so I didn't have to make a decision.  But if it came down to
it, I'd go with either a machined & re-nitritied crank or a good used
one, which one was less costly.

	Are you getting everything balanced?

	Bruce

	'86 Spider
	'73 GTV

	"Bite my crank!" sez the Checkered Demon

> I took apart the bottom end (89 veloce, 85k miles) to do rings because it
> was blowing a little smoke, and found a journal nut in the oil pan.  I
> pulled the engine and noted light pitting on the crank's main bearing
> surfaces, so I took the crank in to be turned.  I have since found out that
> Alfa recommends only replacing the crank, since it's nitrited at the
> factory.  The machine shop assured me the nitriting process penetrates .020"
> or so into the crank, and they'd only be taking .010" off, so it's ok.  they
> can also send the crank to be renitrited if deemed necessary.
> Anybody know about nitriting, whether I should get a different crank, and if
> I should get it nitrited after turning?  This is my first complete engine
> overhaul, so be gentle.

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