compression/spark checks

["C. Peter Audet" <paudet@domain.elided>]

  Well, it's finally warming up enough to work a little on my project '74 GT
Veloce. This car has been run only a few times, for perhaps ten minutes at a
time, in the last ten years or so: I imagine compression readings may be out
of whack and would settle down after more extended running time...
  The engine runs, but apparently on only two cylinders(#2&4). When I pull
off either plug wire #1 or 3 the idle doesn't change at all. I've checked
for spark using a timing light on each wire (hope this is valid?), there are
indeed steady pulses from #1,2&4, with a slight occasional miss from #3.
When I pull the plugs after running the engine, #1 is wet and "clean", #2 is
dry and "carbon", #3 is dry and "clean", #4 is dry and "carbon". 
  I removed the fuel pump fuse and ignition coil wire, then tested each cyl.
for compression. (Cyl. #1 sprayed gas vapour for the first few cranks,
suggesting that it had a pool of gas  built up?or stuck inj.?)
  Results of test #1,warm:                                  90,80,70,125 
  Test #2, cold:                                            82,105,75,95
  Test #3, cold with a "teaspoon" of oil added to each cyl.:90,90,85,95
  Test #4, cold, ten minutes later:                         82,90,80,135
  Test #5, warm:                                            88,80,75,125
With values such as these, the engine should at least run on all four cyl.,
which leads me to suspect: injector #1 is fouling the plug and injector #3
may not be delivering any fuel. Is there a way to check for fuel delivery at
each line or injector? I don't have the SPICA book, yet, any ideas what to
check next? Should I remove the injectors and have them checked/cleaned?
Could inj.#1 be stuck open and #3 stuck closed? Should I check for spark
quality, as well as regularity, the usual way rather than timing light? The
flash from the light doesn't seem very strong, when shone on the white marks
I put on the crank pulley...
  The distrib. is 180 degrees off, apparently supposed to be, since I TDC'ed
to check: timing mark and camshafts set properly. Spark plugs are NGK B6ES.
I think the car smoked a little before I added oil to the cylinders. Could a
valve be stuck? Should all cam followers contact their respective lobes all
the time, or could this be a way to check for a stuck valve?
  To compare, I checked the (cold) compression on my 1750, which has not
been run at all for several years, cranked occasionally, but has a bit of
oil in the cyl. for storage: 125,120,115,150.
  Any help appreciated...
Peter, coming out of Canadian hibernation...

 

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