Re: proper paint for a Giulietta

[bearbvd@domain.elided (Greg Hermann)]

>Albert,
>
>I think acrilic enamel is a synonim for a laquer. I've had several cars
>painted using acrilic enamel and was very happy with it. It looks
>authentic, easily buffed when dull to look like new again, and gives
>ceramic like finish. It costs less then a 2-pack urethane paints too.
>One thing you need to concider is what kind of paint you have on the car
>now. If the old paint is not completely removed before the new paint of
>a DIFFERENT type is applied, then you are running a risk of "spider
>web", as different types of paint have a different rate of thermal
>expansion. You should talk to a reputable painter before taking your car
>to a shop. And final piece of advice: in this case, not only do you get
>what you pay for, but often you DO NOT get what what you paid for. There
>are too many guys out there that cut corners. Find the most reputable
>shop, and pay the money to get the job done right.
>
>Val

Nope.

In the beginning, and based on nitrocellulose chemistry, there was enamel
and there was laquer. Later on there were acrylic enamel AND acrylic
laquer. Acrylic enamel is catalyzed to some extent, therefore, it does not
_REQUIRE_ baking, as did the original enamels.

Acrylic laquer is a fine, durable paint, and VERY forgiving to work with.
You can simply sand out a problem, and paint over it--and no-one can tell.
GM used acrylic laquer as factory paint for YEARS--through the sixties, at
least, without any serious durability problems.

And--if you want a seriously deep finish, you can wet sand an acrylic
laquer and then spray it with a few layers of clear acrylic laquer.

Main reason for the newer paints--which, IMO, except for the epoxies, are
not as good , was the Enviro Nazis worrying about the volatile emissions
associated with drying of the acrylic enamels and laquers. Another factor
is that the MUCH lighter gauge body metal on newer cars may not be quite
stiff enough for a laquer finish not to crack and craze.

IMO--70/30 solder is still the BEST body filler, and acrylic laquer is
still the best finish, as long as you are working with reasonably thick,
steel body panels.

Regards, Greg

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