Milano Cruise Control

["eroe@domain.elided" <eroe@domain.elided>]

If the speedometer works, I would guess the speed signal to the Cruise
Control unit is OK.  The next area I would check would be the brake and
clutch pedal interlock switches.  There is a switch for the clutch pedal
just like the switch on the brake pedal (for the brake lights).  This type
of switch has three terminals.  The clutch circuit uses only two (C & NO)
while the brake switch uses three (this ensures the ARC will flash the red
warning lamp if you have a burned out brake lamp or a bad brake switch,
really it also checks the switch, but has no way to tell you of a bad
switch, that was a hard one to troubleshoot!).

If I remember correctly, the logic is like this, both pedals in rest
position (and switches adjusted correctly) signal to CC unit is ground via
the rear tail-lamps (check that you have the right bulbs, European type, not
standard 1157).  If the clutch pedal is pushed, the circuit goes open and
the CC unit will release and or not engage.  If the brake pedal is pushed,
the circuit goes to +12V and again, the CC unit will release or not engage. 

You can check this circuit without pulling the CC unit out of the dash. 
Open the hood and carefully disconnect the CC servo unit cable.  You have to
squeeze, the connector to pull it apart.  The wire for the circuit is the
red wire.  With a DVM, you can check the switches.  First put the meter in
voltage measurement, DC.  Do the following test on the red wire in the
connector coming FROM the firewall.

Measure the voltage relative to ground. With the ignition ON (engine off)
and the pedals at the rest position, the voltage should zero.  Next have an
assistant push on the brake pedal, the voltage should now be 12V and the
brake lights should be ON.  Finally, have the assistant push the clutch
pedal (while still pushing brake pedal), the signal should now go to zero
(open circuit).  

If test results are OK, next check the resistance of the circuit, relative
to ground, with both pedals in the rest position.  Keep the meter leads
where they are (red to the red wire and black to ground) and switch the
meter to read ohms.  The reading should be a few ohms.

If all that shakes out OK, you may have a bad CC unit or a bad servo unit. 
You can find more VDO CC information at
http://www.conninc.com/w123d/cruise.htm

Finally, the CC unit is "in" the center console just about under the radio. 
Not easy to remove.  At the plug, the wiring is: Pin #1:  (yellow) to servo,
#2: (black) ground, #3: (wht/blk) to servo, #4: (red) to servo via pedal
switches, #5:(lt blue/blk) resume signal, #6: (gry/ylw) decel/set button,
#7:(grey) speedo signal, #8 not used, #9:(wht/red) to servo, #10:(lt blue)
to servo, #11 (green) to servo, #12 (gray/blk)  to power "off" relay
normally 12V, #13 (pink/wht) power on with key, #14:( gray/grn) accel/set
button, #15 not used.  

Disclamier: I am 99% sure the wiring is as I noted, however my Milano manual
is missing the CC section.  I did a retro installation into my '87 and it
seems to work, but I have not be able to have it work "smoothly"  It tends
to be jerky compared with my other car's cruise control.  Can someone check
the "wiring" noted above for me?  Thanks

Good luck!

Erik Roe

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