Milano Heat control

["eroe@domain.elided" <eroe@domain.elided>]

Kevin Smith wrote (in part)

> When I put the cable back on the valve I discovered that the temperature 
>adjustment knob (the middle one) 
> doesn't move the cable.  Probably why the PO took the cable off.  Also, the 
>direction knob (the one on the left) 
> does not appear to work either.
> Are both of the knobs strictly cable operated

Kevin,

As already stated the Milano heat/ventilation system is cable "operated".  I
assume you have a car with A/C cause the non-A/C cars have the heater valve
on the passenger side.   The little wire is pushed and pulled by a small
plastic arm that is connected to the dial.  Turn the dial and the arm is
rotated.  If both of controls of yours are not moving the cable (not even a
little) I would bet the little arm(s) broke.  Not an easy thing to fix.

At any rate, you will need to get under and have a look.  I just went
through the same thing with my Milano.  On mine, the arm on the far left
dial broke.  You can get a look at the thing by removing the center console:
1.  Open the little elbow pad/storage box and remove the one screw in the
bottom of it.  If you do not see a screw, you must remove the bottom piece. 
It fits in tightly, use a small knife blade or similar to catch the edge and
lift it out
2.  With the p-brake down, lift this elbow pad "assembly" up and look for a
13mm bolt.  It is at the very back.  Remove this bolt.
3.  Remove the screws on the left and right sides of the console, there are
four; two on the vertical sides, between the "rear" and front halves and two
up front, connecting the front part of the console to the main dash.  Slide
the rear part back as far as you can.
4.  Remove the radio and the radio slide in housing (if you still have a
factory radio)
5.  Lift the parking brake as high as you can and slide the "rear" part of
the console back and away from the front. 
6.  Being careful and you will be able to remove the front part of the
console.  It was held in by the two screws and a couple of tongues just
above the heating controls and spring clip to the "rear" part of the
console, that is why you need to push the rear part back first.  Now you can
clearly see the dial "box".  You can also view the back of the box.  (You
will need to put your head in the foot area, against the pedals).

With the console removed you will see the little cable housings and the
operation of the system.  The cable is actually spring wire.  You can buy
the stuff at hobby stores, it is used in remote control air planes to
control the rudder and other wing things.  Get the SAME gauge.  The store
may also sell these neat pliers that allow you to do a perfect "Z" bend
which is required at the end of the wire to connect it to the lever.  You
can get the same result with small pliers and patience.   If you happen to
make the wire a little to long or short, you can change the length of the
cable housing by twisting the adjusting drums on the  cable housing.

The "dial box" is connected to the air box unit with a small sheet metal
tab.  A pop-rivet holds the tab to the box.  You can just pry it out and use
a screw in place of it.  Be careful as the A/C temperature feedback "tube"
and some wiring are also connected.  You might get the "dial box" from a
parts place (APE, or other).

It is important that the wire just before the end ("Z") is very straight. 
The wire is like a little column and any kind of kink or  bow will allow it
to buckle and not push the lever it is connected to.  Lastly, resist the
temptation to spray oil in the cable housing.  This will get gummy and will
create friction.  If anything, use an electrical contact cleaner to flush
the housing.   Maybe a little dry graphite would be OK.  If you can, get the
teflon coated cable the VWs have.  I am not sure if the diameter is right,
but you could get some from a 80's Vanagon.

The little plastic control levers are going to be hard to fix.  I had an
extra heater unit so, I just stole one from it.  It may be a dealer item,
but I doubt it.  And of course, the plastic lever for each dial is unique. 
You may want to make an arm "end" out of aluminum plate (like 3/16" thick). 
It could be attached to the remaining portion of the plastic arm with small
screws or many warps of fine wire.  Just an idea.

Don't forget to check the valve and duct work for smooth easy operation. 

Sorry for the long post.  Good luck.

Erik Roe
Portland, OR
Milano, old Spider, older Spider

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