Re: Spider alignment for modified cars

[Kevin Charles Trent <trentkc@domain.elided>]

I posted a similar question earlier this summer.   My spider has stock
springs, Koni shocks and aftermarket "indianapolis"  (ford?) mags with
195/65 Dunlop D60 M2 tires.  The feedback I received resulted in the
following recommendations for nonstandard alignment specifications:
Camber = .5 to 1.0 degrees negative 
Caster = 1.5 to 2.0 degrees negative (up to a maximum of 2.3 degrees)
Toe-in = .06 each side
In addition, you should give the following procedure to your alignment
technician.  Following this procedure for the toe in (steps 3-7) will
result in a proper alignment with a straight steering wheel and correct
tracking of BOTH wheels at the extreme left and right wheel lock (as when
parking in tight spaces).

Procedure for 105/115 alignment:
1. If your car has adjustible upper A arms, set camber on each side.  If
your car has the stock(unadjustible) upper arms, there is nothing you can
do to adjust camber, go to step 2.

2. Set caster on both sides. 

3. Set steering wheel to straight ahead position. 

4. Set the front wheel on the steering box side to straight ahead position
by using the track rod.   (The track rods are the short rods on either side
that connect the wheel spindle to the steering box or idler.)

5.  Measure the length of the track rod on the steering box side, then set
the track rod on the passenger side  to same length.  This step is
essential for the front wheels to retain proper steering arc in extreme
left and right turns.   

6.  Use the center tie rod to bring the wheel on the side away from the
steering box into the straight ahead position.

7.  Finally, turn the track rods by equal amounts on each side to set toe in.

BTW these specs are good for GTVs and Berlinas.  My spider went from an ill
steering, pull to one side, sensitive to road crown,
wander-all-over-the-road hard to drive beast to a straight tracking vehicle
with much improved turn-in when hitting the twisties.  In addition I feel
that the use of adustable upper A arms is essential to obtaining a good
alignment because it allows the camber to set properly (and exactly
matching) on both sides of the car.  Using the slight negative camber (-.7
degree) really improved turn in with minimal impact on tire wear.   Using
maximum caster helped with high speed straight-line tracking. Finally, I
insist that the alignment shop let me sit in the driver seat (I'm 230 lbs)
and I have 1/2 to 2/3 tank of gas when it is aligned - so the car is loaded
the way it is typically driven. 
kct

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