Re: debugging the L-Jet

["Eric H." <ejham@domain.elided>]

I've found (here in the warm climate of Florida) that the aux air
device is optional. On cold mornings one can set the throttle using
the manual throttle control to keep idle up if you have a GTV6. If
you've got a Milano, I expect that a minute's inconvenience of holding
the accelerator pedal slightly depressed would serve the same purpose
although I very much doubt that stalling would be a problem, only low
and slightly erratic idling for a few minutes in the morning.

When I first bought my GTV6, I replaced just about every rubber hose
(they were all showing their age) related to the fuel/air system (with
the exception of the big, big one that runs from the AFM to the
throttle). It was not a difficult task and stabilized things quite a
bit. I used fuel-injection-grade hose where I could and found that
5/8-heater hose worked admirably in larger applications. For the
idle-air bypass hose, cut the heater hose long allowing for a long,
gentle bend toward the firewall to allow for proper air flow (the
original hose was fashioned with right-angle bends).

To troubleshoot, disconnect and plug both of the main air hoses
connected to the air valve on a warm engine. If improvement is
observed, then you've found the culprit.

Also examine very closely the fittings to the main duct. These become
loose and cracked with age. They can be mended sometimes with some
patience, RTV and clamps.

Now that I've got a spare duct in fair condition from my parts car,
I'm going to try something which occurred to me after reading the
pricing of a new duct (about $110 from International Auto). I'll
follow a thorough degreasing with an multiple application of
plastic-dip (the tough stuff used on tool handles) to the exterior of
the duct. I have on my garage shelf some spray-on 'dip' in bright
red...won't that make for an interesting under-hood look? I'll let the
Digest know how it turns out.

- -- Eric Hambleton, Clearwater, FL

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