Re: clutch bleeding attempts

[Jaap Bouma <j.h.bouma@domain.elided>]

At 02:32 PM 5/31/99 -0400, Jean Denis wrote:
>Difficulty bleeding the clutch seems to be a common affliction.
>So far the tips & tricks are as follows:
>1) Steep incline, nose down, pump pedal repeatedly and push down while
>opening bleeder, close bleeder and release.
>2) Crack open hard line fitting (about 1 turn or less) at clutch master,
>pump pedal several times until resistance increases, tighten fitting and
>continue as usual from slave bleeder.
>Any others?

The problem with the clutch slave cylinder is that the bleeder screw is not
at the very top of the cylinder bore, but slightly below it. This allows an
air bubble to remain in the cylinder if it is bled in the normal mounted
position.

This worked first time for me:
1. (Optional) Get a pressure bleeding set. (As I stated before on this
forum, I use the Gunson Eezibleed; imho cheap and effective). These sets
have the advantage that the fluid is forced continuously through the system
at a much higher velocity than with the traditional pedal-pumping method,
taking any air bubbles with it.
2. Remove slave cylinder from mounting, but leave connected to flex hose.
Use a few sturdy cable-ties to keep piston in place (it is spring-loaded,
so don't let it pop out). I used one cable-tie to go in front of the
piston, and between the bleed nipple and the flex hose fitting, and another
around the edge of the cylinder at the end where the piston is to keep the
first one from slipping.
3. Bleed the cylinder as it dangles from the hose. In this position the
bleed screw is pointing upwards, at the highest point of the cylinder.
4. Remove pressure from the bleeding device, remove cable-ties and refit
slave cylinder to mounting.
5. Drive off with a firm clutch pedal.

Sounds like a lot of work maybe, but it takes just ten minutes if you know
how the pressure bleeder works and the car is up on ramps (or similar).


Best, Jaap Bouma (Netherlands)
'87 GTV6 2.5 Grand Prix

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