RE: 105 emergency brake reassembly

[Bob Abhalter <gt1300jr@domain.elided>]

Steve,
Guess how I spent last weekend? Same job, same reason. Since I ended up 
doing it two-and-a-half or three times, I think I can provide some advice.
1. I had the choice of bench assembly or doing it with the axle in the car. 
I found it easier to reassemble while on the car.
2. Remember/note that the two actuator cables are of different lengths. The 
longer one fits on the left. (This was the reason for one restart.)
3. Screw in the adjusting wheel until fully collapsed (short as possible.) 
The wheels install on the side of the brake shoe that has the "U" cutout - 
but you knew this.
4. On the bench or floor, fit the adjusting wheel assembly (wheel down - 
longer part of the adjuster pointing up when installed) and the brake shoes 
together as a partial assembly using the skinny, longer spring on the 
adjuster side.
5. Fit the two shoes behind the axle flange up against the backing plate. 
Anchor the shoes to the backing plate with the spring-loaded attaching 
stakes. Once you find the slot and press in, a quarter-turn with the Allen 
wrench will do it.
6. Insert the actuator through the cut-out from the front and jockey it 
around the axle into position between the two brake shoes. Engage the 
notches in the actuator with the notches in the shoes. I can't say for sure 
that the orientation of the actuator matters, but I noticed some 
interference the first time I did it, so I ran to my CarDisc and printed 
the page from the parts catalog. It's kind of hard to explain, but the 
U-strap on the outside arm of the actuator is down, with the longer part of 
the fork sticking up.
7. You should now be able to install the stubby, fat spring. It helps to 
have a pair of brake spring pliers to do this. In fact, it would be tough 
to do this job without a pair.
8. At this point everything should be together. Make sure the spring 
anchors are still properly seated before you fit the disks and caliper. If 
the disk hangs up, make sure the shoes are centered on the backing disk and 
that the actuator and adjuster assembly is properly seated between the 
shoes
9. Connect the actuator cables to the cable levers (on the differential). 
If you have changed brake shoes, you will probably have to release the 
cable adjuster on the handle end of the cable. Watch out for rust/binding 
of any sort. It is easy to break the threaded adjuster.
10. Adjust the clearance by working the adjuster wheel with a screwdriver 
through one of the access holes in the disk. Bring the shoes into contact 
with the drum, then back off three or four notches. It helps to work the 
actuator cable a few times to make sure the shoes are centered.
11. Adjust the cable so that the e-brakes come on in 1/2 the brake handle's 
travel.
12. Degrease hands and dress wounds.
Hope I didn't forget anything.

Good luck,
Bob Abhalter
Grand Rapids MI
'91 164L
'69 Spider
'68 GT Junior


- -----Original Message-----
From:	borrani@domain.elided [SMTP:borrani@domain.elided]
Sent:	Monday, May 10, 1999 1:50 PM
To:	alfa-digest@domain.elided
Subject:	105 emergency brake reassembly

Hey all,
Just got back from vacation, it's grand to be back
home.  I now have to get Turner ready for her first
vintage race this Friday.  I'm installing longer
wheelstuds into the back axles, that's going well, but
it has not been easy trying to reassemble the parking
brake ass'y.
Can any of you offer your favorite step by step
procedures on how to get these pieces back together?  I
can do it, but it is taking way too much time.  Does the
orientation of the tensioning device mechanism matter?
It seems like it could go on either way.

I thought the heater box was tough and time-consuming!

Steve S.
1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
Seattle, WA

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