Spring Installation experience - 74 GTV

[Janice & Steve Ashby <sjash@domain.elided>]

A while back there was a thread about the process of installing springs on
a 105/115 series.  I just did it this weekend and I tought I'd post my
technique/results FWIW.

Disclaimer - this is potentially dangerous stuff - if you don't know what
you're doing, don't do it!  I installed IAP's spring set on a 74 GTV - YMMV.

Rears:

This was pretty simple.  I just supported the chassis on jack stands,
removed the wheels, and did one side at a time.  Jack up one side of the
axle, remove the strap retaining thingie (4 10 mm bolts).  Drop the axle
down.  It will catch on the anti-roll bar.  Remove the shock lower
attachment nut and push the shock up.  Now I had to use a coil spring
compressor to get the old spring out.  

The new one goes in with no compression.  It's free length is significantly
less.  Reattached the shock lower nut, jack up the axle, and reattached the
limit strap.

Repeat on the other side.

This was about 3 hours work.

Fronts:

Jack up both sides of the front (makes it easier to remove anti-roll bar).
Remove wheels. On both sides, remove the 13 mm nuts that hold the short
anti-roll bar links to the lower A-arm.  Swing the anti-roll bar up out of
the way.  

One at a time remove the 17 mm bolts attaching the pan that supports the
spring to the lower A-arm and replace each with threaded rod.  This is
where I learned the most.  I used 12 inch lengths of 3/8-16 rod, double
nutted on the top.  Halfway through I discovered that it was hard to get a
wrench up to the nut supporting the pan.  So I used 4 3/8 deep sockets,
15-19 mm, as spacers to get the nuts clear of the flanges on the pan.  Made
the job much easier.  Teh 3/8 rod fits through the 3/8 drive hole nicely.  

So now you have a rod with double nuts above the lower A-arm, the A-arm,
the pan, a socket, a washer, and a nut.  Now just back the nuts off, going
around with 5-10 turns per nut.  MAKE SURE THE ROD DOESN'T BACK OUT OF THE
DOUBLE NUTS ON TOP.  I found the 12 inch rods were fine for length, all the
compression coming out of the spring well before I ran out of rod.  I would
use better grade rod next time, though.  The cheap stuff I used bent if I
didn't pay close attention to backing off evenly.  

I didn't have any extra spacers in my car, just the rubbers and a ring that
was pretty well attached by dirt and rust to the bottom pan.  

Installation is the reverse - just much faster because again the free
length is much shorter.

If I had to do it again I'd get a ratcheting box wrench (9/16) to run the
nuts down and up the threaded rod.  Or maybe even on of those wrenches Bob
Vila advertises on the TV <g>.  

Fronts took about four hours.

Results:

I put on four Dunlop D60 A2 195/65R14 tires at the same time.  Car is
noticeably lower, but to the uneducated eye doesn't look "lowered".  It
looks just right and stock to me.  I'll post some pictures on my web site
when I get the car washed.  The ride is much firmer, but not harsh.  The
car has Koni reds, but I have no clue how old the are.  

Steve Ashby
Denver CO

74 GTV
75 Spider  (still for sale)

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