Re: 4 cylinder cam tensioner question/problem

[Simon Favre <simon@domain.elided>]

The real culprit is probably the wedge which has wedged itself between
the tensioner and the plug on the outside. It should be possible to pull
the tensioner out of its hole from the inside, and then fish the wedge
out with a magnet. The tricky part is pushing the tensioner in while
making sure the wedge doesn't fall out. One way is to put a dab of wheel
bearing grease on the wedge to make it stick to the tensioner. Put the
wedge near the spring end of the tensioner and push it in just far enough
to get the tensioner bolt inserted properly. The tensioner bolt only needs
to be loosened about 1/2 to 1 turn from tight to slide the tensioner. The
tensioner should go all the way back.


Marcus Alley wrote:

>This weekend I was thwarted in my attempt to re-install the cams in my
>GTV because I was unable to get the timing chain back together.  The
>culprit appears to be the idler, which is not fully retracting into
>the block.  So, question number 1, should it move back into the head
>all the way?  Right now, with the spring fully compressed, there's
>still about 3/4" (~19mm) of shaft exposed.
>
>In addition, when looking through the tensioner bolt hole all I see is
>spring.  So it appears that the wedge is no longer there, which one
>assumes is also not correct.  Has it just fallen out, or has it some
>how worked it's way back between the spring and the head plug?
>
>If something is blocking the idler from fully retracting, what size
>allen wrench do I need for the head plug?  Reassembly would seem to be
>fairly straightforward, but are there any tricks to watch out for?

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End of alfa-digest V7 #615
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