RE: clutch problems cont'd

[woodland <mwoodland@domain.elided>]

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 In V7#602, Bryan Carter said:
  Can I assume that even if I get it to break free that I might want to
replace it anyway?  It's got 92k on it and if it is in fact 'frozen' in
place I don't imagine it will be in too great a shape when it breaks
loose.  Yes, no?
Thanks all..
Bryan Carter

 Bryan,
If it breaks loose, drive it for a while and slip the clutch a few times to 
scrub the rust off of the flywheel and pressure plate. Once you are down to 
good metal...if it ain't broke,.. why put yourself through the aggravation 
of pulling the trans?
If the clutch slips, it needs replaced.
If the throwout bearing chirps a bit, its up to you.( you could try to 
spray it with an aerosol grease.. its red, and I forget the name right 
now.. It comes out liquid, then turns to a red grease as the solvents flash 
off.. keep it off the clutch disc tho..
If the throwout bearing screaches and howls, and wont respond to the spray 
grease, you might as well pull it. ( the trans)
If you do decide (or have ) to pull the trans, do the rest of the job and 
replace the:
1. Clutch driven plate
2. Pressure Plate
3. Throw out bearing
4. Engine Rear Main Seal
5. Transmission Input and Output Seals
6. Inspect (cleaned) Flywheel for "Blue" or dark spots, evidence of 
previous clutch slippage with attendant overheating and localized 
Hardening. If this is present, have the flywheel resurfaced at your local 
machine shop, otherwise, the new clutch will exhibit an annoying "chatter" 
or shudder on take-up. The "blue" spots, because they are harder than the 
surrounding metal, will wear less, and develop into "high spots", causing 
the shudder. Its a pisser if you have gone to the trouble of pulling 
everything apart and putting it back together.. BTDT.. purchased a car with 
a "new clutch", one month old, but the flywheel had not been resurfaced..it 
shuddered like crazy.
7. Inspect (and lube) clutch fork pivot and transmission input shaft 
splines.
Best of luck
Mark

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