Winter Storage

[Bob and Mauri Rand <r-mrand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Over the years, I have received advice and experiences with winter storage
of our so loved Alfas.  I have tried to place all this information in one
list to share with others.  

Disclaimer:  My experience is solely with Spiders so you may have to alter
your procedures for different vehicles.  I also live in the Northeast where
the winters are real cold and we get a January thaw which presents some
condensation concerns.  Please don't take this as the final word.  Please
look at this as a laundry list for winter hibernation considerations.  Any
comments, both positive and negative, which may help others and myself are
greatly appreciated.  Best of luck and sleep tight.

In the Fall:

1. Test drive (hard) - To determine if anything should be put on your list
to fix either over the fall or winter.  When others are waiting for parts in
the spring and inspections are holding back getting your car on the road,
you'll be glad you are all set. (examples- lights, bearing noises, bushing
creaks, alignments, brake noises or problems, etc.) Not to say you can fix
everything, but some of the items that will keep it off the road in the
spring may be something to address.
 
2. Engine oil - If it has not been done within the last month, change it and
the filter now.  Let the engine run to operating temp. to allow that clean
oil to bathe the entire engine for its nap.  (For SPICA owners- don't forget
the SPICA oil filter which can accumulate sludge)  Because of condensation
over the winter, remember to change the oil again in the spring to get rid
of the water sitting on the bottom of your sump.
 
3. Engine coolant - with a cool engine, inspect the old coolant for oil
foaming which may indicate a problem with the head gasket. Install a
Prestone flushing tee and flush the cooling system, including the heater
core.  Drain the entire system as much as possible. Replace with the
appropriate percentage (50/50) of quality antifreeze and distilled water.
This will reduce the pH inside your aluminum block and prolong engine
integrity by reducing the acidity of the coolant.  Start the engine with the
cap off and bubble out any air.  Fill as necessary.  Cover the radiator and
bleed off any remaining air with the bleeder (Bosch models only, I think).
Run to operating temp so the thermostat opens as necessary.  Be sure to
change the coolant in the overfill reservoir.
 
4. Fuel tank - if you suspect you have water in the fuel tank now, fill the
tank and use the appropriate drying agent to get rid of the water.  Then
fill it again with premium fuel and the correct quantity of fuel stabilizer.
Run the vehicle to make sure the fuel/stabilizer is run through the entire
fuel system.  A full tank of fuel will prevent the dreaded condensation and
therefore rust in the fuel tank itself.  (Steel will not rust when submerged
in a petroleum product)  Draining the tank to remove excess water may be
necessary.  Judgment on your part is required.
 
5. Exterior - Wash, polish, and wax the exterior. Treat the convertible top
with your favorite protectant (as applicable). 
 
6. Engine - Remove the spark plugs and coat the walls of the cylinders with
NAPA "The Fogger" Motor Storage Protectant part number 765-2632 available at
NAPA auto parts store.  Remove the positive wire to the coil and crank a few
times to assure full coating.  Replace the plugs to proper torque settings.
 
7. Battery - Remove the battery, clean if necessary, fully charge, and store
in a cool, dry place.  Full charge once again during the winter and once
again before use in the spring.
 
8. Carburetor - Spray some WD-40 on carb linkages, bodies and inside to
prevent corrosion. 
 
9. Hydraulic fluids - Replace with fresh fluid to also remove water or other
unwanted products.  Using a CLEAN device to remove the old fluid from the
reservoir (turkey baster, siphon pump, etc.), fill with clean fluid and
bleed each line starting with the farthest from the master cylinder working
to the closest.  Use whatever bleeding system works for you.  The key is to
keep the clean fluid in and the air out.  This should also be done with the
hydraulic clutch in the same manner.  It may be tougher to access, but
should be done.
 
10. Vapor Barrier - Place the car on a piece of poly plastic to make a vapor
barrier between the floor and the bottom of the car.  The "drive-in"
dehumidifiers are great too, but be gentle as to not rip them.
 
11. Raise - Raise the car off the ground and support by placing large, solid
wood blocks under the rear axle (not directly under the springs causing
pressure on the trailing arm bushing).  Don't use concrete blocks for they
are subject to cracking and will not hold the load.  Jack stands are nice,
but if you only have two sets and need to work on other vehicles in your
fleet, you're stuck.  I have used pieces of landscape beams (6" x 6") and
they work fine. The front can be supported either under the spring pans, the
jacking points, or the frame rails.  I prefer the spring pans because it
puts less stress on the body.  If you support under the jacking points, the
entire weight of the front of the car is trying to bend the car in half at
the jack point.
 
12. Tires - Lower the air pressure in tires by a few psi (not flat, though)
and treat with favorite protectant.
 
13. Bushings - Spray some silicone on all the bushings to keep them pliable
and reduce squeaks.
 
14. Orifices - Place rags in the exhaust and intake ports to prevent nesting
of our little friends.
 
15. Interior - Vacuum the interior and install moth balls (in their own
container).  You can also place those "mini-dehumidifiers in a can" which
will absorb condensation in the interior, trunk, and engine compartment.
Cover car with a quality, breathable cover.  Keep convertible top up.  Store
toneau cover in a clean area.

In the Winter:

1. Wheels/Tires - Rotate wheels/tires by hand a few revolutions every couple
of days to keep bearings and seals loose.
 
2. Battery - Fully charge battery once (mid-winter).


In the Spring:

1.  Exterior/Interior - Remove car cover, mothballs, dehumidifiers, and any
other storage related objects.
 
2.  Tires - Inflate the tires to recommended pressure.
 
3.  Lower - Lower the car from its perch.
 
4.  Engine Oil - Change the oil again (before starting!) to discard the
water which has collected in the bottom of the pan.
 
5.  Battery - Fully charge battery and install it.
 
6.  Engine - Remove the plugs and the positive coil wire and turn the cams
with the starter.  Turn the engine enough to get oil pressure up, then
replace the plugs and wire.
 
7.  Fire it up!!

When this is done, your rolling gem will be ready for spring and you won't
have to be fishing rust out of fuel lines, scoring the cylinder walls,
pulling mice nests out of your intakes, or getting that "rejected"
inspection sticker which we all love.

Best of luck and lets hope the winter is a calm one.

Bob Rand
1987 Alfa Spider Quad.
AROC & AONE member

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